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Tobago map
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Embassies & Consulates
All representation is in Port of Spain in Trinidad
Canada - The High Commission For Canada, Maple House, 3-3a Sweet Briar Road, St Clair, Port of Spain, Trinidad, t 622 6232, chcpspan@opus.co.tt.
United Kingdom - British High Commission, 19 St Clair Avenue, St Clair, PO Box 778, Port of Spain, Trinidad, t 622 8960/2748, csbhc@opus.co.tt.
United States of America - Embassy of The United States of America, 15 Queen's Park West, Port of Spain, Trinidad, t 622 6371-6, usispos@trinidad.net |
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Emergencies
Police – 999 or 639 1200
Fire – 990 or 639 2108
Ambulance – 990 or 639 2222
Hospital – 639 2551-6
Coast Guard – 639 1461 |
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Flights/Getting There
Tobago is well served from Britain and Europe, from where there are direct flights. It is not so well served from North America. There is one direct flight a week, but mostly you have to fly to Port of Spain. It is an easy hop on Caribbean Airlines (former Tobago Express) or another local airline, but the timings may not be that convenient and you often end up overnighting there. For services within the Caribbean and from Trinidad, see below.
From Britain and mainland Europe:
British Airways, Monarch Airlines (contact Golden Caribbean) and Virgin Atlantic from London, Gatwick, and Condor from Frankfurt, Germany.
Trinidad is currently serviced by the following airlines:
American Airlines from Miami; American Eagle from San Juan; Air Canada from Toronto; Caribbean Airlines (former BWIA and based in Port of Spain) from London Gatwick with British Airways code share, and from Toronto, New York (JFK), Miami, Jamaica, Antigua, Barbados, Guyana and Surinam; Continental Airlines from Newark, New Jersey and Houston, Texas; DCA (Dutch Caribbean Airlines) from Curacao and Surinam Airways from Paramaribo, Surinam
FROM WITHIN THE CARIBBEAN
LIAT from Port of Spain and on to Grenada and Barbados, from where there are onward connections up the island chain.
FROM TRINIDAD
Trinidad is only a 20-minute flight from Tobago. Domestic services between the two islands are fairly frequent with Caribbean Airlines (who took over the air bridge formerly operated by Tobago Express in October 2007) which operates around 12 return flights a day between 6am and 9pm, cost TT$300 (US$50) return.
BY FERRY
There is a regular car ferry service between Port of Spain and Scarborough, including two fast ferries, T&T Express and T&T Spirit which take about 2½ hours. These two high-speed catamarans carry between 740-840 passengers and 200 vehicles. Facilities include onboard movies, bars and cafés. The Economy fare is TT$100 return, with children under 12yrs of age half price and under 3yrs free. The crossing on the conventional ferry, MF Panorama takes around 5 ½ hours and it can get a little rough. The MV Panorama has a restaurant, bars and cabins and takes 700 passengers and 140 vehicles. The Economy fare is TT$75 return and a Cabin (double occupancy) TT$160. Children under 12 years half price and under 3 years free. Compared to the cost of TT$300 for a quick flight, some consider the conventional ferry hardly worth the effort, t 639 2416/7 or 4906. For all ferry sailing times and additional information please see Trinidad & Tobago Port Authority, www.patnt.com |
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Flora & Gardens
Tobago is immensely fertile. Much of its plant life has its origins in South America, which lies not far off to the south.
The centrepiece of the rainforest is the Main Ridge Forest Reserve, the oldest reserve in the western hemisphere, possibly in the world (declared in 1776). There are over 300 varieties of trees and more than a dozen wild orchids. The most accessible point of entry to the forest is the Gilpin Trace, which is a popular marked trail of around 6 miles.
A number of spectacular flowering trees are to be found around the island. In the New Year and into February the immortelle produces glorious, bright golden-orange flowers. Also called madre de cacoa (mother of cocoa), it was imported as a shade tree for the cocoa walks, which you will pass through on approach to the Forest Reserve. Also early in the year African tulip trees come out, with their clusters of bold, flame coloured flowers. In April/May the delicate blossoms of the yellow and pink poui trees fall like a carpet on the ground, followed by cassias with golden-yellow flowers. The national flower of Trinidad and Tobago is the flame red chaconia, also known as wild poinsettia.
Over the years the Horticultural Society of Trinidad and Tobago has won Gold medals at Royal Horticultural Society shows in the UK, and in 2003 they won their first gold in 14 years at the Chelsea Flower Show.
Botanical Gardens
Established over 100 years ago, the 17 acre garden is located on the outskirts of the capital Scarborough. It is home to avenues of Royal Palms, and a selection of indigenous plants, trees and flowers. It is more of a park now, a quiet retreat on the outskirts of the (relative) bustle of Scarborough.
The Horticultural Society of Trinidad and Tobago, PO Box 252, Port of Spain, Trinidad, t/f 622 6423 |
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Food & Cooking
With its strong African heritage, Tobagonian cooking is fairly similar to that of the islands further north, but it has also been influenced by its sister Trinidad’s extraordinary racial mix. The result is in an interesting fusion, with considerable use of local produce, herbs and spices. The strongest influence outside Africa is probably India, as there is a huge Indian population in Trinidad. Restaurants are more varied of course, but there they add local spice to what are often fairly international menus elsewhere. See more information about the best island Restaurants.
While you are in Tobago you should definitely try a roti. This is an extremely popular lunchtime takeaway, and it is so filling that it can keep you going for the rest of the day. Trinidad may be the official home of the roti, but you can find excellent ones in Tobago. It is basically a soft, tortilla-like wrap, filled with curried meat and potato, with fillings as varied as conch, duck, shrimp, goat, beef, chicken, chana, veg or simply potato on its own. Another version of the roti is called ‘Buss-up-shut’, in which paratha bread torn into pieces and served with the curry filling on the side, sometimes with homemade mango chutney. It gets its name from the fact that the paratha bread looks a bit like khaki-coloured material, literally ‘bust (torn) up shirt’.
Shark ‘n’ bake is famous beach fare from Trinidad’s Maracas Bay, but is also available at Store Bay in Tobago, where there are a number of stalls selling local food. The ‘bake’ is a large, flat-ish, deep fried doughnut (with no hole and minus the sugar), which tastes a bit like Yorkshire pudding. Served hot, it is split and filled with salad and a chunk of deep fried shark seasoned with local herbs. Add dash of hot pepper sauce for extra bite. Crab ‘n’ dumplin, is another local favourite. Whole blue land crabs are boiled in a well seasoned coconut and curry sauce and served with plain flat (water, flour and salt) dumplings. It can be messy to eat.
For an all-in-one rice dish there is chicken pelau, which incorporates sugar-browned chicken (they use natural cane sugar) which gives the dish it’s unique flavour, and pigeon peas, carrots, coconut milk, herbs, hot pepper, Worcestershire sauce and garlic. Other popular dishes include callaloo soup, a rich, thick and highly seasoned affair made with dasheen leaves (like spinach), okra and crab (sometimes) or salt pork. Oil down which is a hearty mixture of breadfruit cooked in coconut milk, with salted pig tail, and seasoned with garlic, chives, and hot pepper and accras are deep fried fish cakes made from salted cod, herbs and hot pepper.
Naturally fresh fish features on most menus. It is usually highly seasoned and can be served steamed, baked, fried, grilled or in a broth. Chicken is another important ingredient and on Sundays a typical lunch would include either baked or stewed chicken with rice, red beans, macaroni pie and callaloo/dasheen.
If you are particularly interested in local cooking, then you might be interested to try the following restaurants.
Blue Crab, t 639 2737, inexpensive - moderate
Modern West Indian setting on a terrace in town. Good honest West Indian fare, callaloo soup and coal-pot chicken, great lunch
Jemma’s Sea View Kitchen, Speysde, moderate
Classic West Indian setting on the waterfront, on raised decks among the tree branches, classic West Indian fare |
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Golf
The two 18 hole championship golf courses on Tobago provide golfers with the option of a nice, easy going round or something far more challenging. The Mt Irvine Bay golf course was established in 1968 and was designed by the late Commander John D Harris, who built the undulating course on the former coconut plantation. It is an attractive course - each fairway has sea views and there are hundreds of coconut palms - and it is popular with golfers looking for a more leisurely round.
The PGA designed (Bob Hunt & Marcus Blackburn) course at Tobago Plantations Golf & Country Club offers more testing conditions. It is extremely well maintained and has a varied, pleasant landscape which snakes around lakes (look out for caymans and the increasingly diverse wildlife), woodland, the ocean and mangroves. Set on the Atlantic side of the island, part of the course has a links-style feel. It can be extremely windy at times, which adds to the challenge of course. Over the past couple of years the course has become a PGA Seniors Tour venue.
Mt Irvine Bay Golf Course, t 639 8871
18 hole, 6793 yard, Par 72 course. Facilities include Club House, restaurant and Pro Shop, green fees US$30 for 9 holes and $48 for 18, golf cart US$20 for 9 holes and $36 for 18, golf clubs US$10 for 9 holes and $15 for 18, all rates subject to 15% VAT. Caddy US$7 for 9 holes and $18 for 18, no VAT.
Tobago Plantations Golf & Country Club, t 631 0875, golf@tobagoplantations.com
18 hole, 7005 yard, 72 par, PGA design, cart only course. Green fees including shared cart, 9 holes US$60 and 18 holes $85, seven 9 hole rounds in 10 days US$250 and 18 holes $385 (50% discount for children under 15), club rentals including shoes US$25, driving range $5 – all rates include 15% VAT. Facilities include Golf Academy, Clubhouse with bar, restaurant, pro shop, lounge, changing rooms and class rooms. |
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Health & Fitness
There is a gym at Le Gran Courlan and one at the Dwight Yorke Stadium just outside Scarborough to the east. |
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Hiking
Tobago has a wonderful natural life and is still relatively unspoiled, particularly in the east of the island, from its beaches right up into its incredibly fertile rainforest, which is crammed with diverse bird and plant life. There are some excellent hiking trails, with a good variety of difficulty, so there is something to suit all ages and abilities. Some of the more arduous trails run through the reserve’s main ridge and the going can get steep on occasions. Farther west, some trails lead alongside swamps and through mangroves, others along rivers. Anyone who enjoys a hike or has interest in nature should head for the hills at least once.
There is a number of excellent guides on the island, who will bring the place alive for you, explaining the extraordinary plant life, animal behaviour and the history behind their Main Ridge Forest Reserve. Some guides have a speciality, but all know enough to be fascinating generalists. It is probably better not to head out on your own as it is remarkably easy to get lost.
Recommended clothing: lightweight trousers or long shorts, a cotton shirt or t-shirt, walking shoes and a sun hat, depending on weather conditions, a lightweight waterproof. Most guides offer rubber boots for hire, which are probably best on a short hike. The rainforest is of course covered by canopy, but you may want to take high factor sunscreen, some insect repellent and water to drink.
Recommended guides include:
Darren Henry, Nature Lovers, t 639 4559, darren_tours@yahoo.com or Darren@tobagobirding.com
Trained Forester (Diploma in Forestry), Certificate in Tropical Dendrology, the study of trees, and guide with 7 years birding experience
David Rooks, Nature Tours, t 756 8594, rookstobago@trinidad.net, www.rookstobago.com
Well known local ornithologist and nature lecturer who arranges bird watching and nature trips/hikes
Newton George, t 660 5463, ngeorge@tstt.net.tt
Experienced bird watching and nature tour guide, also a Rain Forest Reserve Ranger
Harris McDonald, Harris’ Jungle Tours, t 639 0513 home or cell 759 0170 harris_jungle@hotmail.com, www.harris-jungle-tours.com
A guide who offers selection of tours including rainforest and bird watching walks
Yes! Tourism, t 631 0286,
Local incoming tour operator offering sightseeing and special interest tours including trips to the Rain Forest and Argyle Falls |
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History/Population/Politics
Tobago lies 11 degrees north of the equator and just 22 miles north-east of its sister island Trinidad. The island is not volcanic in origin, rather it is made of rubble that has been pushed up by the movement of the Caribbean tectonic plate on its eastward journey along the northern side of South America and against the Atlantic plate. The island lies at a slant from southwest to northeast, with the higher, forested land in the east, topping 1860ft at the island’s highest point, Pigeon Peak. The lower, western end of the island has become clad with coral limestone as the sea has risen and fallen around it over the millennia. At 26 miles long and 7 miles across at its widest point Tobago is 116 square miles in size.
The earliest inhabitants of Tobago were Amerindians that made their way across from South America. The Arawaks and more warlike Caribs had been living in Tobago for hundreds of years, and when Christopher Columbus is thought to have spotted Tobago (he never set foot on the island) on his third voyage in 1498, the island was already inhabited by Caribs. It is thought that the name Tobago actually derives from the word tavaco/tobaco, the Carib Indian name for the yard-long, Y-shaped tube used to blast hallucinatory powder up one anothers’ noses. It was the Spanish who later took the name tobacco and used it for the plant rather than the pipe. Early variations of the name Tobago were Tabagua and Tabago.
Tobago remained undisturbed by Europeans for many years and the Spaniards never sought to establish a settlement there. It was not until 1580 that passing British navigators thrust a flag into the soil, and then it took until 1608 before King James I actually claimed sovereignty.
It appears that the first attempt to settle Tobago began in 1625 when Englishmen came from Barbados, but it failed. Over the next two centuries the island was the scene of an enormous number of settlements and subsequent battles over sovereignty. They were fought by the Dutch (who introduced sugar to the island in the 1630s), the French, Spaniards and the English. At one point it was even colonised by a group of Courlanders, who came from the Duchy of Kurland/Courland which is now part modern day of Latvia. They settled around the Plymouth area, hence the name of Great Courland Bay. The island was left unclaimed by a treaty in 1684 and so it became a favourite pirate hideout. It is estimated that it changed hands as many as 22 times during its turbulent history. In 1814 the island was finally ceded to the British in the Treaty of Paris. In the lull between the battles planting went on in earnest and Tobago became a wealthy island for a while. Long enough fo the phrase ‘as rich as a Tobago planter’ to be coined.
Tobago’s population is completely different from its sister-island Trinidad’s. The Tobagonians are mainly of African descent, brought to the island as slaves in the 1700s rather than as indentured labourers in the 1840s and later. Of course a few Trinidadians have come to live on the island, and so you will see clusters of prayer flags on bamboo poles and one minaret.
Tobago’s economy failed when the bottom fell out of the cane sugar market in the late 1880s (caused by the introduction of sugar beet in Europe) and in 1889 Tobago was placed under Trinidad’s administrative control, largely unwanted, becoming simply a ‘ward’ of the larger island. Independence from Britain was granted to the twin island colony on August 31st 1962, and the country became the Republic of Trinidad & Tobago on August 1st 1976. Trinidad & Tobago is a member of the British Commonwealth.
A bicameral legislature exists with the President, currently HE President George Maxwell Richards, as head of state. The executive power lies with the Prime Minister, Patrick Manning of the PNM (Peoples National Movement) and his cabinet. Parliament consists of an elected House of Representatives (33 seats), and an appointed Upper House (38 seat), the Senate.
In 1980 The Tobago House of Assembly (THA) was formed and in 1996 new legislation gave it more autonomy over political, financial and social issues. It has no law making powers, but the THA is responsible for the administration of Tobago, and reports directly to the Minister of Tobago Affairs, who acts on its behalf in the Cabinet and the House of Representatives.
Tobago has a population of approximately 54,000, of whom 90% are of African origin. The adult literacy rate is approximately 80-85%. |
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Horse Riding
Looking Out Stables, Orange Hill, t 639 9379/682 2408, horses@pobox.com
A choice of three rides depending on experience. A 2-hour Hill Ride for mixed abilities with a bit of trotting, a 4-hour Beach Ride on which experienced riders can call the pace, and a 4-hour Workout Ride where the client requests the pace of the ride (lots of fast riding) which is suitable for experienced riders only. Prices from US$75-$120
Friendship Riding Stables, t 660 8563
Beach rides and trekking for all levels. Tuition for both children and adults |
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Island Hopping
Tobago’s proximity to Trinidad makes that the obvious place to hop to for a day or two and although the larger island is a little untypical of the Caribbean, it is extremely lively and there are plenty of things to do there. The birdlife is supreme (even better than Tobago’s), as is other natural life. It has an extraordinary culture, excellent rainforest and a couple of good beach areas. The hop is easy and inexpensive, but be aware that the trip can be quite daunting in some ways. Port of Spain is a large city and is proper travelling rather than beach-based tourism. There are also some issues with personal security. We would recommend arranging the trip beforehand, possibly through a local organiser.
There are several flights a day to Trinidad, operated by Caribbean Airlines (service formerly operated by Tobago Express), return fare from TT$300/US$50. There is also a regular car ferry and the crossings vary from 2 ½ hours on the fast ferries to almost 6 hours on the conventional ferry (at times a little rough). See under Flights/How to get there.
Of course it is not far north to the Windward Islands, where there are some delightful small islands in the Grenadines that would make a good foil to the relatively large Tobago. Perhaps try Bequia. It is actually possible to make a day trip to the Tobago Cays (a group of islands in the Grenadines). This includes a sailing trip aboard the schooner Scaramouche. This trip can be arranged through Yes! Tourism, t 631 0286. Grenada itself is well connected to Tobago by air.
You might also consider going to nearby South America. There are currently no trips from Tobago, but you can travel via Trinidad, which is served by flights into Venezuela and Surinam. You should expect to stay overnight in Port of Spain. Local airlines that serve Tobago and Trinidad include:
LIAT
Services from Port of Spain to Guyana, Curacao, Grenada, Barbados and St Lucia, and from Tobago to Barbados and Grenada.
Connaire, t 627 4118
Five morning services per week (Mon, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun) from Port of Spain to Caracas.
Surinam Airways, t 669 4770
Two evening services per week on Fri and Sun from Port of Spain into Paramaribo.
If you wish to charter a small aircraft, the following are available -
| | SVG AirA local Caribbean airline that offers charters to the Grenadines from around the region, often from Barbados, but also from St Lucia and Grenada, even from as far as Puerto Rico. SVG Air has around a dozen 5-19-seater planes and also offers island hopping and air ambulance services. |
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Local Organisers
If you have booked through a tour operator or travel organiser, then the company will usually have its own local representative on the ground, a ‘ground handler’ who will meet you on arrival and take you to your hotel or villa. They can help with orientation and they will also take care of any requests or emergencies during your stay. Our recommended ground handler on Tobago is Yes! Tourism, who offer a concierge service as well as tours and arranging conference and incentive travel.
If you have made the booking yourself and are travelling independently, you should check the meet and greet arrangements at the time of booking (please see our individual property reviews). If you would like a personalised ‘concierge‘ service to help you with arrangements on the island, then you can get hold of Yes! Tourism. See details of services provided by local organisers.
When it comes to excursions and activities the hotels and villa resorts generally have good reception and concierge services, so they can arrange a sailing trip for you, a sports outing or a restaurant reservation. Villa managers and owners will also help with advice and arrangements for booking tours. If you are thinking of getting married in Tobago, we recommend a wedding organiser, Tobago Weddings. For information and ideas about getting married in Tobago, see Weddings.
Our recommended local organisers in Tobago are -
| | Yes! TourismA small and friendly destination management company based in Tobago that offers a range of tours and tailor-made services, including a concierge service for individual travellers staying in villas and on yachts, meet and greet services, excursions on and off island and private and corporate events for groups. | | Tobago WeddingsTobago Weddings is the only specialist wedding planner in Tobago. The company is run by the very experienced Marie Dilworth and offers a complete service to co-ordinate every aspect of your wedding. They will liaise with you personally (or with your accommodation provider or travel organiser), help you to select one of Tobago’s many fantastic wedding locations and then bring together the best suppliers on the island in order to create the perfect day for you. |
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Local Transport
Whilst the government bus service (PTSC - Public Transport Service Corporation) is cheap, it is not usually that appropriate or convenient for travellers to the island. Catch it if you can, but remember that you will need to purchase your ticket before boarding. Tickets on sale in some shops, many of which are closed on Sundays.
Far easier and more convenient are the private share taxis or route taxis that travel along all the main routes on the island. These will squeeze you in if they have room, and sometimes if they don’t. Check the destination and fare before you get in.
Official taxis can be identified by an H licence plate. |
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Medical
You first call in case of a medical emergency should your hotel front desk or villa manager.
A new general hospital, with 100 beds, is planned for construction at Signal Hill and was due for completion in 2007. The new facility will replace the 96 bed Tobago Regional Hospital, which is located above Scarborough, next to Fort King George. There is also a private medical facility Scarborough, and there are health centres or clinics in all the main communities.
Serious medical cases are referred to Trinidad (by helicopter in an emergency) either to Port of Spain’s General Hospital or the Mount Hope Eric Williams Medical Sciences Complex, home to the University of the West Indies, Faculty of Medical Sciences - Schools of Medicine, Dentistry, Veterinary Medicine and Pharmacy.
Vaccinations Check that your coverage for polio and tetanus is up to date. There is no malaria in Tobago, but there are very occasional outbreaks of dengue fever – another mosquito-borne disease. You should take normal precautions against mosquito bites, including using insect repellent during daylight hours and after sunset. Note that Hepatitis A occurs very occasionally and Rabies is present, transmitted by bats. With the exception of Yellow Fever, where a vaccination certificate is required from travellers over one (1) year of age, coming from infected areas, vaccinations are not required for entry into Tobago, however please check with your GP prior to travelling.
STOP PRESS: Construction of the new hospital has been on hold for some time, however it is hoped that work will resume towards the latter part of 2008. |
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Music
Tobago shares much of its music with Trinidad, its larger sister island, which is the home of calypso and steel pan (steel bands that use bashed out oil drums) and it is fun to get out into the bars to hear the Tobagonians at play. In the hotels the usual mix of international songs, some reggae (from Jamaica) and other Caribbean rhythms you hear around the Caribbean is served up along with calypso and steel band music.
You may well hear a pan player or two in your hotel, but the best time to see them playing is during the run-up to carnival (in January and February), when bands are rehearsing for the competitions at Panorama. They increase to over 100 players. You can simply turn up at their yard and watch. One of Tobago’s top steel bands is Redemption Sound Setters Steel Orchestra. With such stiff competition in Trinidad, it is a source of considerable pride that this band (started only in 1991) has managed to compete so successfully during Panorama, coming 4th in 2002 and 2003, and 7th in 2004. There are players of all ages, down to 9 years old.
There are usually a couple of calypso tents and these are fun to visit, although the singers are quite hard to understand so it helps to have someone that can interpret and explain it all for you
A special music that you will hear at Christmastime in both Tobago and Trinidad is parang, which is played by a string band. The instruments used are the guitar, the cuattro, box-base and maracas. Lastly, you might come across an extraordinary sound called tamboo bamboo, which is also great fun to watch. Like steel band music it is entirely percussive, with drummers beating out a rhythm on African drums, and then an extraordinary series of bamboo poles of different size to get a different pitch. The result is a loud but mesmerizing display of rhythm. |
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