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St Lucia map
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Music
St Lucia has a lively musical scene and you will hear rhythms from all over the Caribbean, including calypsos from Trinidad, Barbados and St Lucia itself, salsa and merengue from the Latin islands, but particularly zouk from the neighbouring French island of Martinique.
Traditional St Lucian music is fun to hear, so look out for local shak shak bands with their stringed instruments and boom box bass. As with most Caribbean islands you will also hear steel bands - which are originally from Trinidad - rehearsing on street corners or as entertainment in hotels and official occasions around the island. Popular modern local artists include the Soca singer Ricky T who was St Lucia’s representative at Trinidad Carnival 2008, Ninja Dan, Marriane and Cupid. You may be surprised to hear the sounds of Country and Western music in rural villages and particularly along the coasts. Formal occasions are a growing force amongst the younger population who are beginning to join their elders for line dancing sessions in town, particularly at Prio's Country Place in Castries on the weekends.
The most famous fixture on the St Lucia music scene is the St Lucia Jazz Festival, which is held in May each year. It has a fairly broad interpretation of jazz, in order to provide something for every visitor to the island. Although the shows are concentrated in the North (particularly on Pigeon Island) they are held in are venues all over the island including bars and gardens in the south and the east. In 2008 the Festival featured R & B, Jazz and Blues stars including; Jonathon Butler, Angie Stone, Carl Allen, Dionne Warwick and Wyclef Jean.
Other more local festivals include La Marguerite (17th October) and the La Rose (30th August). These are two festivals with musical and floral celebrations set around an imaginary court, complete with finery, ceremonial garb and flower cockades.
The only major recording studio on the island is the 758 studios which produce a lot of the music played around the towns and at the Anse le Raye jump ups. Local radio stations on which to familiarise yourself with the hits of the moment include Radio Caribbean International (98.6fm) and Radio 100 Helen (100.3fm) are. |
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Nature
St Lucia is quite well set up for travellers interested in flora and fauna, with rainforest walks led by well-informed guides and some excursions to see wildlife in its natural habitat, including the St Lucia parrot other birds. There has been an effort recently to encourage nature based activities in the south of the island with trusts to help organise walks and excursions.
Organisations in St Lucia that have an interest in nature include the St Lucia National Trust, t 452 5005, the Department of Forestry, t 450 2231, and in the south, the Soufrière Regional Development Foundation, t 459 7200, the Southern Tourism Development Corporation, t 454 3822 and the Choiseul Association of Tourism, Craft and Heritage, t 459 3964.
Bird watching
Destinations include the Descartiers Trail for forest birds, the botanical gardens in Soufrière, the Maria Islands and the area around Micoud for sea birds. Also the offshore island of Frégate, where you can see the breeding ground of St Lucia's frigate bird population. Indigenous species that you might be lucky enough to see include St Lucia parrot, the white breasted thrasher, St Lucia peewee, St Lucia oriole and St Lucia wren. Arrangements can be made through the St Lucia Forestry Department for early morning or late afternoon trips, cost US$40 per person for four hours, maximum ten people, minimum three.
Maria Islands Nature Reserve, t 454 5014
An offshore reserve where two endangered endemic species are found, the extremely rare Kouwes or racer snake and zandoli te, the whiptail lizard with a bright blue tail.
Fregate Island Nature Trail
This tour visits the breeding ground of St Lucia's frigate bird population, which spend time here in the mating season. The island is also home to a number of rare species of birds, a small boa constrictor, and some unusual vegetation. A marine tour can also be arranged to Praslin Island. |
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Nudity
Besides being against the law, nudity is not appreciated by the St Lucians on public beaches while in view. It happens on the remote east coast beaches occasionally, but they are hard to get to. A few hotels with effectively their own beaches do tolerate toplessness but that’s the limit. |
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Passports & Visas
USA and Canadian citizens can visit St Lucia on a photo ID with birth certificate, all other visitors including British and EU citizens require a full passport valid for at least six months from the date of entry. Citizens of the USA and Commonwealth countries do not require a visa. All other countries please check with the St Lucia High Commission or with your travel organiser as to whether a visa is needed. All visitors are also required to have an onward or return ticket.
Since 31 December 2006 all American citizens returning home from the Caribbean have needed a valid passport. For further information please check with the US Department of State. |
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Places of Worship
With their French heritage, almost 80% of St Lucians are Roman Catholic. As in most West Indian islands there is a plethora of other denominations including Anglican, Baptist, Methodist and Seventh Day Adventist
The Catholic Cathedral is on Sir Derek Walcott Square at the centre of Castries. |
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Places to Go/Activities
With its complicated and romantic history, St Lucia has surprising depth and so there are some excellent places to visit. The north of the island, where the majority of visitors stay, has some historic estates and parks open to the public including the popular Pigeon Island.
South of Marigot Bay, itself a popular attraction because it is so attractive, you will find the most famous of St Lucia landmarks, the Pitons. The Sulphur Springs, botanical gardens and Diamond Falls are all within a short drive along the main road near Soufriere. Not many tourists make it to the small towns along the coastal road but if you can factor the time into your trip then they are well worth a visit and the drive.
The award-winning St Lucia Heritage Tourism Programme is a collection of good sights with a strong Creole flavour.
The North and Castries
Pigeon Island National Park
Joined to the mainland in a tourism project in the 1970s, Pigeon Island is a mountainous point of lawns and forest. There are historic barrack buildings and many old stone fortifications, some restored but many in ruins. One contains a nice beach bar, Jambe de Bois. Trails lead you through the woods and of course there is the Interpretation Centre, see below.
The Pigeon Island Museum & Interpretation Centre
The Museum illustrates the island’s history from the time of the Arawaks through to colonial days (it is housed in the restored British officer’s mess building) with pictorial representations of colonial military days on the island. There is a visual display of the Battle of the Saints in 1782. Open daily, 9am-5pm, admission EC$5 for adults and EC$1 for children five to twelve years old.
Castries
Castries lies in the North-west of St Lucia. Not much of the attractive original wooden architecture remains unfortunately as the city has been burned down so many times, but there is a small clutch of wooden buildings near the city’s centre, Derek Walcott Square, which has been named in honour of St Lucia’s Nobel Laureate for Literature. The Cathedral, also set on the Square, is a modern building but has some charm inside. A visit to the Central Market is definitely worth it, to see the groaning tables of tropical fruits and other goods and the lively carry-on of local business.
Morne Fortune Historic Area, Castries
The steep hill behind Castries, which is dotted with Georgian barrack buildings, cannons and colonial monuments, a majestic powder magazine, gun batteries and redoubts. It is one of the most fought over places in the Caribbean, so will attract anyone with an interest in military history. The views are spectacular and carry along the north of the island and out to sea as far as Martinique. Tours are available through the St Lucia National Trust.
Fond Latisab Creole Park, t 450 5461
East of Castries inland, a former estate with many old creole traditions on view, including the preparation of cassava bread, cooking, the catching of crayfish on the river and traditional wood sawing.
Marquis Estate, east coast, t 452 3762
St Lucia’s largest working estate, which still produces banana and coconut. It has exhibits of crops that were important in St Lucia’s past such as cocoa and coffee.
Treetop Adventure Park, Dennery, t 458 0908
A 35 acre piece of woodland providing a variety of activities at the heart of the St Lucia rainforest, Treetop Adventure Park offers cycling tours on forest trails, zip lines around the canopy and the testing Treetop Challenge Course as well as the new Kiddies Adventure Park. Knowledgeable and friendly guides, BBQ, bar, washrooms and transfers from the hotels in the north. Open seven days a week 9am–4pm. Suitable for families. See a video of the Treetop Adventure Park.
Rain Forest Sky Rides, t 458 5151
Set in a section of forest in the north of island, Rain Forest Sky Rides offer guided gondola tours through the tree canopies. Experienced guides educate and inform the tour on the wide variety of flora and fauna visible from your seat. Suitable for people of all ages, facilities for the physically challenged.
South of Castries
Marigot Bay
One of the prettiest bays in the Caribbean, with its screen of tall palms, steep volcanic sides and waterfront restaurants and bars. Its entrance is so narrow that it is hard to see from out to sea. One admiral is supposed to have played a trick on an adversary in pursuit by hiding his whole fleet in there.
St Lucia Rum Distillery, t 431 4315, tour@sludistillers.com.
A rum distillery in the banana-growing Roseau valley where you can hear the story of rum and then see distillation in action. Chance to sample some of the products, including Bounty Rum and Spirit of St Lucia.
La Sikwi Historical Sugar Mill & Plantation, inland from Anse la Raye, t 451 0425
A 400 acre estate with stunning gardens set around an old restored sugar factory. There is a 40ft water wheel and a museum explaining sugar cultivation.
Soufrière
St Lucia’s oldest town, named by the French after the whiff of sulphur that can often be smelled on the air from the nearby volcano (called the Soufrière). It is a 60 minute drive south of Castries over a fantastic winding road through the rainforest, with ferns that hang over the road. The town, which still has a few nice old wooden Creole buildings, sits midway down the Caribbean coast of the island just north of the distinctive Pitons. The immensely fertile land around the town has rainforest and plantations that are worth visiting as well as the world’s only ‘drive-in’ volcano.
Diamond Falls
Inland from Soufrière, dramatic tropical gardens set around a waterfall that comes down from the area of the volcano. The water, full of minerals that have discoloured the riverbed orange, has therapeutic qualities, so much that the French King ordered baths to be built here for the good of his troops. The waters are supposed to be good to help with rheumatism. Open Monday to Saturday 10am–5pm and Sunday 10am–3pm. General admission US$5, children under 12 US$2.50. Mineral Baths admission US$6 for a private bath or US$4 for an outdoor one. All inclusive guided tour including lunch US$30.
Sulphur Springs Park
Not the most attractive place in the world, but it has a certain fascination. A living volcanic vent, a stinking morass, where sulphur bubbles in mounds of mud and nothing can grow. Smelly, but unique as the world’s only ‘drive-in’ volcano. Sulphur Springs Interpretation Centre. Small admission.
The Pitons
These twin pointed volcanic peaks rise side by side mid way down the Caribbean coast like massive eye teeth. Incredibly striking, when viewed from both sea and land, they appear as free-standing peaks, but in fact they are part of the walls of a volcanic cone that blew itself apart an estimated 40,000 years ago. The area is still volcanically active of course, though unlike other volcanoes in the region the Soufrière has not erupted violently recently (at least not in the last few million years). Instead it vents, releasing the pressure through the Soufrière, which sells itself as the world’s only ‘drive-in volcano’.
The Gros Piton can be climbed, see hiking.
Fond Doux Estate, t 459 7545, www.fonddouxestate.com
A 19th century plantation house set in working fruit orchards, with cocoa drying trays (boucans) and an interesting medicinal herb garden. You can guide yourself on the garden and forest trails (open 8am-4pm, with a map of the garden and plant identification booklet), or take a guided tour. Full day tour with picnic lunch, starts at 10am. There is also a restaurant, boutique and nature trail through the gardens.
Choiseul, Laborie
Local coastal villages in the southwest. There is a craft centre just before Choiseul selling traditional crafts such as baskets, straw mats, woodwork and pottery. There is a former Carib settlement at La Pointe. Laborie is a picturesque fishing village with a protected, light sand beach. Above the village, Morne Le Blanc is a viewing point and picnic spot overlooking the south of the island. The River Doree waterfront and historic ruins can be accessed via a path from Anse Touloulou. The nearby Devil’s Bridge spans the river canyon.
Balenbouche Estate, between Laborie and Choiseul, t 455 1244
A delightful guesthouse and heritage site set on a former sugar plantation located on the south-western coast of St Lucia. It is still a working farm, set in 80 acres around a very pretty 19th century wooden house, which is furnished with old Caribbean antiques and prints and is surrounded by lush gardens. The sugar mill is a typical 19th century mill with giant waterwheel and ruined boiling and curing houses, a chimney and elaborate water system. Balenbouche Estate offers guided tours, lunches and dinners (by prior reservation).
Vieux Fort
St Lucia’s second town, Vieux Fort lies an hour south of Castries at the southern tip of the island. It is a fairly modern town.
Atlantic Coast
Mamiku Gardens, near Praslin on the Atlantic coast, t 455 3729, www.mamiku.com.
Twelve acres of superb gardens around an eighteenth century estate, still with pretty estate house. The best gardens on the island, visited by horticultural societies from around the world. Banana walks, many flowers, orchids and medicinal plants.
Fond D’Or Historical Park, Dennery, t 453 3242 / 453 8389
Fond D’Or, a former estate in a large bay on the Atlantic coast near Dennery, has Amerindian ruins, sugar mill relics, hiking trails, and a white sand beach that is frequented by leatherback turtles. Also, it is a leading venue for performances during the St Lucia Jazz Festival ‘Jazz in the East’. |
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Real Estate
In an island as beautiful as St Lucia and as developed (by comparison with the rest of the Windward Islands at any rate) you would expect a buoyant real estate market, but for all the smart homes on the island (and there are quite a few) this has only recently become the case. There is now considerable development, of private villas certainly, but also of larger projects from the likes of Raffles, Ritz-Carlton and Westin. With affordable land and this development, St Lucia a good prospect in terms of real estate, for second homes as well as an investment.
Traditionally development has been concentrated in the north of the island, mainly north of the capital Castries, but new build is gradually spreading farther afield. The smartest area is still in the Cap Estate at the far northern tip of St Lucia, where townhouses are appearing around the golf courses and from time to time villas come up for re-sale. The Jack Nicklaus Golf Course at Raffles St Lucia and the 5 star resort, The Landings, are pulling in developers and investors quicker than they can get round the 18 holes.
Rodney Bay itself is also very popular, and as demand increases in that area, plots and houses are coming up for sale farther and farther east. Another important area in the north of the island is the Vigie Peninsular close to Castries. This was the most prestigious area when life was centred more on the capital. It is quieter now, but there are still some very nice houses there which occasionally come up for sale.
South of Castries there is also some development (with plenty more on the way). The supernaturally pretty Marigot Bay has a big project and there are some lovely individual plots in the hills above the bay. There is less development around Soufrière in the south of the island, although there are some individual houses and plots for sale, and some small scale development there too around the hotels.
On St Lucia we recommend:
| | Tropical Villas LtdTropical Villas Real Estate is more recently established arm of the largest and longest standing villa rental agency on St Lucia. Based in the Cap Estate in far north of the island, but the company deals in private villas, undeveloped plots and developments all over the island. | | Villas at Jalousie PlantationSingle, one-bedroom and double villas set in clusters high on the forested hillside between the Pitons in the south of St Lucia. The villas are part of the Jalousie Plantation Hotel and construction is ongoing during 2007 and beyond. Prices start at US$485,000 and run up to a million dollars or more. | | Villas of LeSportA collection of approximately 25 two-bedroom villas in elegant plantation style set on the hillside above the hotel the BodyHoliday at LeSport. They have excellent views looking west and north to Martinique from the northern tip of the island. The development is under construction, prices from US$860,000 | | Cap Maison Luxury Caribbean Real EstateA top-notch real estate development in the Cap Estate in the far north of St Lucia. Cap Maison, a 50-room hotel, is made up of 22 one, two and three bedroom terraced apartment suites in modern ‘hacienda’ style. The resort opens in November 2008. All units are now sold. |
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Recommended Books
St Lucia is the home of a Nobel laureate for literature, Sir Derek Walcott. He is the author of a number of works of poetry including Omeros and The Bounty, and his play Odyssey a Stage Version.
Other St Lucian novels to look out for include The Lights on the Hill by Garth St Omer. If you are interested in a historical view of St Lucia then you might be able to track down St Lucia Diary, by Lt J H Caddy, a military man who was posted to the island in the 1700s. Other old-time stories are recorded in St Lucia, Tours and Tales by Harriet Durham and Florence Lewisohn, which was in print not long ago.
For a photographic journey around St Lucia do have a look at Jenny Palmer's St Lucia: Portrait of an Island (Macmillan Caribbean). There is an introduction by John Robert Lee, one of the island's most respected poets, and quotes from Nobel Prize winner Sir Derek Walcott. Jenny has also published work on The Cayman Islands, Saint Kitts and has her own website - www.SparklePortraits.com |
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Restaurants
St Lucia has a good range of restaurants in all conceivable styles and prices, some of them in fantastic locations around the island’s stunning terrain. A good handful of them (including some of the hotel dining rooms) offer fine dining that measures up to the top standards around the Caribbean. Then there is a whole host of establishments where you can get a lively evening out. Rodney Bay Village is the busiest area. The streets are lined with very lively bars and restaurants, while around the lagoon several other restaurants have quieter, romantic settings on the waterfront. Elsewhere around St Lucia you will find restaurants set on hillsides or tucked away on lagoons and along the Caribbean coast. Of course fast food outlets have established themselves in the malls and busy areas.
In addition to the mainly international cuisine in these restaurants, there is also good local creole food on offer in St Lucia, in both restaurant settings and in the evenings out – the two ‘Fish Frys’ in Gros Islet and Anse La Raye are definitely worth visiting for something a bit different - or you can try the more local affair in Dennery on Saturdays.
During the high season it is advisable to book ahead at the most popular restaurants. Bear in mind that tipping for good service - usually 10% - is the norm.
The following price categories are a guide to the cost of a main course:
Inexpensive EC$10 – $25 (US$4 - $10), Moderate EC$25 – $40 (US$10 – $15), Expensive EC$40 and above (from US$15)
Below is a sample of the most popular and trusted restaurants and cafes on offer in:
GROS ISLET
Big Chef Steakhouse, Rodney Bay, t 450 0210, moderate/expensive
Wooden waterfront setting for steaks and a variety of pasta, seafood and salads.
Bosun’s, Rodney Bay Marina, t 458 4190, inexpensive/moderate
Casual café with a view over the marina, great coffee, bar. Good spot for lunch and casual dinner, also snack menu.
Buzz Seafood and Grill, Rodney Bay, t 458 0450, moderate/expensive
Pretty setting in a creole-style house with louvers on pegs, indoor and outdoor seating, with consistently good food and a decent wine list. A wide variety of dishes from around the world - steaks, rack of lamb, vegetarian and West Indian dishes, delicious lobster and crab cakes, homemade raviolis (spinach, lobster). One of the nicest restaurants on the island. Reservations required.
Café Claude, Rodney Bay, t 458 0847, inexpensive/moderate
Casual, rustic café with great coffee, bar. Popular spot for lunch and casual dinner, snack menu.
Café Ole, Elena’s Ice Cream, Rodney Bay Marina, t 452 8726, inexpensive
Elena’s marina outlet, set on wooden decking looking out over the yachts. Italian style gelateria, best ice-cream on the island, international and some special local flavours ranging from Cointreau-orange to soursop, lime, mango, coconut and passion fruit. Also excellent coffee. Light snacks - sandwiches, salads, pastries, toasties.
Capone’s, Rodney Bay, t 452 0284, inexpensive/moderate.
Friendly restaurant set in an art deco-style building with a 1930s gangland theme - don’t be surprised if your bill turns up in a violin case. Nice atmosphere, Serves classic Italian pizza and pasta.
Charthouse, Rodney Bay, t 452 8115, expensive
Long established favourite, busy but always satisfying. Steak, seafood, barbecue baby back ribs, roast beef, fresh lobster in season, waterfront setting.
Chic, Royal St Lucian Hotel, Rodney Bay, t 452 9999, expensive
Art-inspired contemporary setting offering high quality international food with a West Indian twist. Sophisticated dining, gracious presentation and an extensive wine cellar.
Coal Pot, Vigie/Castries, t 452 5566, expensive
Fine French cuisine in a lovely waterfront setting looking onto the limpid water of Castries harbour. Owner-run by Michelle and Xavier Ribot (the chef). Fresh Caribbean ingredients to create simple yet excellent French menu. Great ambiance, an open air structure with walls of wood and stone decorated with Michelle’s colourful original Caribbean artwork. Well worth the visit.
Elena’s Italian Ice-cream & Coffee Shop, Rodney Bay, t 458 0576, inexpensive
Set in the heart of Rodney Bay Village. Best ice-cream on the island, international and local flavours ranging from Cointreau-orange to soursop, lime, coconut and passion fruit. Freshly ground coffee. Also light snacks, sandwiches, pastries, salads, toasties.
Henry’s La Panache, t 450 0765, inexpensive/moderate
A (roughly) weekly West Indian buffet held on their rustic outdoor veranda. Always fun.
Jambe de Bois, Pigeon Island, t 450 8166, inexpensive
Friendly café, bar and restaurant on Pigeon Island, the National Landmark. Great spot to hang out after exploring Pigeon Island and swimming. Wind chimes, driftwood décor, plants and cats on a wooden deck next to the sea. Art gallery, internet and book swap, often live jazz on Sunday evenings.
Key Largo, Rodney Bay, t 452 0282, moderate
Famous for its wood oven real Italian pizza by Carlo Piazza. Casual lunch and dinner.
Laurel’s, Bois D’Orange/Gros Islet, t 452 8547, inexpensive
Very rustic and local setting, off the beaten track (on the road to La Brelotte Bay/Windjammer Landing). Excellent place for local food, Laurel cooks herself and is famous for her creole dishes for lunch (souse, green fig and salt fish) and for dinner crayfish and lambi (conch).
Memories of Hong Kong, Reduit Ave/Rodney Bay, t 452 8212, expensive
Open-sided Chinese restaurant serving authentic oriental food. Bar serving a wide variety of spirits and consistently good quality meals. Takeaway available.
Pizza Pizza, Rodney Bay, t 452 8282, inexpensive
Fun atmosphere and welcoming towards families. Deep dish and regular pizzas, outdoor seating by the waterside and a children’s playground.
Razmataz Restaurant, Rodney Bay, t 452 9800, moderate/expensive
Tandoori Indian specialities served in a Creole house. The Nepalese chef prepares a range of Indian dishes from a lamb vindaloo or chicken tikka masala to korma and nan breads. Also an excellent selection of vegetarian dishes.
Rumours, Rodney Bay, t 452 9249, inexpensive
A sports bar offering bar snacks/food. Local hang out or ‘liming’ spot to start or end the night, usually not really happening until around midnight.
Scuttlebutts, Rodney Bay Marina, t 452 0351, moderate
Bar/restaurant in Rodney Bay Marina, frequented by yachties, especially during the ARC Atlantic Rally for cruisers in December. Liming and dining.
Spinnakers Beach Bar & Carvery, Reduit Beach, t 452 8491, moderate
Right on Reduit Beach, a great spot for sundowners and watching the sunset full on. Casual dining. Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, cocktails.
Tao, LeSport Hotel, Cap Estate, t 457 7800, expensive
Award-winning restaurant at the LeSport, offering Pacific Rim cuisine in a delightful upstairs dining room. Elegant presentation in a theme of black and white. Reserve a few days in advance.
The Captain’s Cellar Pub, Pigeon Island, t 450 0918, inexpensive
Classic style pub and bar situated in the original officers quarters. English pub fare, breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The Dolphins, Bay Gardens Beach Resort, Rodney Bay, t 457 8599, expensive
Refined setting in Balinese style off the main drag at Rodney Bay. This seafood steakhouse offers fine dining before you head into the Red Room Piano Lounge for cocktails and light jazz. Closed on Mondays.
The Edge, Rodney Bay, t 450 3343, expensive
Fine dining in a very attractive waterfront setting overlooking the inky night-time water of Rodney Bay. Excellent cuisine in a fusion of Caribbean and European dishes (that they call Eurobbean), with a close attention to detail. The island’s only sushi bar.
The Lime, Rodney Bay, t 452 0761, inexpensive/moderate
Good, reasonably priced food. Lunch and dinner menu and fast food kitchen with fresh St Lucian cuisine. Closed on Tuesdays. Bar and night club.
CASTRIES AND MARIGOT BAY
Chateau Mygo, Marigot Bay, t 451 4772, moderate
Local restaurant set on a raised deck right above the lagoon. Easy hangout for yachties and people staying around the bay.
Jacques, Vigie Cove, t 458 1900, expensive
Tranquil waterside dining, French owner/chef Jack, fusion of French and Caribbean cuisine.
JJ’s, Marigot Bay, t 451 4076, moderate
Set on a covered deck right on the waterfront in Marigot Bay, reached by a wooden walkway through the mangroves that is floodlit at night. Slightly formal air, with a good variety of local and international dishes. Also good pizzas. Themed parties some nights.
Kimlan’s, Castries, t 452 1136, inexpensive
Excellent local restaurant with a nice balcony overlooking Derek Walcott Square right in the middle of town. Hearty local/Creole fare and excellent fruit juices, nice spot to get out of the heat and bustle of town.
Oceana Restaurant & Lounge, La Toc Rd/Castries, t 456 0300, inexpensive/moderate
Breathtaking view over Castries and the north of the island, located in the historic Ridgeway House on La Toc road. Affordable good quality dining.
Rainforest Hideaway, Marigot Bay, moderate/expensive.
Boat access only to a lovely setting at the waterside on Marigot Bay, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, offering bar and grill during the day and excellent dining in the evenings.
St Lucia Bellyfull, next to the Market in Castries, inexpensive
Offers rasta food and juices.
The Wharf, Choc Bay, t 450 4844, moderate
Great beach location on Choc Bay. Popular with local businessmen over lunch. Varied menu including international dishes. Famous for fish, shrimps and their burgers. Open 9am–6pm, Monday to Sunday.
SOUFRIERE
Bang Between the Pitons, just south of Jalousie Plantation, moderate
Traditional creole buildings surrounding a courtyard, hearty West Indian and international fare, very laid back.
Dasheene Restaurant, Ladera Resort, Soufrière, t 459 7323, expensive
A breath-taking setting with views between the Pitons from 1000 ft (can be fresh on winter evenings). Good innovative cuisine, a combination of St Lucian ingredients with modern cooking styles, created by award winning Caribbean chef, Orlando Satchel.
Hummingbird Beach Resort, Soufrière, t 459 7232, moderate/expensive
Friendly bar and restaurant overlooking a pool with stunning views to the Pitons. Creole and international menu and a vast array of interesting but powerful local cocktails, try the award winning ‘La Belle Amour’ or the ominous sounding ‘Piton Peril’.
Mango Tree, Stonefield Estate, Soufrière, t 459 7037, moderate/expensive
Very pretty terrace setting beneath the Pitons, recently extended to offer stunning views out to sea. Swedish Chef Stina blends fresh local produce and home grown organic vegetables to create a satisfying fusion cuisine. Different international themes, try the Creole night on a Monday or the Thursday night BBQ with a local shak shak band.
VIEUX FORT AND ATLANTIC SIDE
The Reef & Bar, Anse de Sables, Vieux Fort, t 454 3418, inexpensive
Bar/snacks, tropical cocktails and fresh seafood with a great beach location close to Hewanorra airport. Watch the surfers and kiters before taking off.
Ruby’s Bar, t 715 6817, TJ’s, t 287 3213, Kathy’s Hangout, t 712 0728, Seaview Hideaway, t 716 3153, all in Dennery, all inexpensive
If you are heading down the Atlantic coast, perhaps to Mamiku Gardens, the airport or to the Vieux Fort area, you will find a small collection of local hangouts as you leave Dennery heading for Micoud. They make a great stop for lunch – barbecued fare, or whatever dish is available that day, including fish, chicken, pork and beef witha mound of vegetables. |
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Rum
The only distillery in St Lucia is the small St Lucia Rum Distillery in the Roseau Valley. They distil 21 different rums and rum liqueurs including the popular Bounty Rum, Chairman’s Reserve and the gold medal winning Admiral Rodney. Tours are available, t 431 4315, tour@sludistillers.com.
Bois Bande
Bois Bande (pronounced a bit like ‘bawbandy’) is a highly spiced, very individual rum. Locally handmade, you can’t buy it in supermarkets, and the owner will never divulge his/her secret – everyone has their own recipe. The usual ingredients include white rum, grenadine, bay leaf, cinnamon, tree roots, herbs and shrubs. Be warned though, it is known as liquid Viagra!
The Food and Rum Festival, Rodney Bay, www.foodandrumfestival.com
A popular annual gastronomic event, held from October 30th to November 2nd for 2008, which aims to promote and teach visitors about the diversity of Caribbean food and drink. The festival collects some of the best Caribbean chefs and it is a great chance to taste a variety of good quality rums from across the Caribbean. |
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Sailing
As a single island, St Lucia is not one of the Caribbean’s leading sailing areas but it is a very popular base (particularly in the north around Rodney Bay) and it has a number of good bays for yachts. It is not far from the Grenadines to the south, and Guadeloupe and its islands to the north, so St Lucia is certainly a reasonable starting and dropping off point for a sailing trip in the region. A couple of charter companies operate from the island (though most charter operators prefer now prefer to work out of the Grenadines), alongside many crewed charter yachts which base themselves here. The Moorings maintain a small facility at Marigot Bay.
The north of the island, around Rodney Bay, has been a major anchorage for centuries (it was an important naval base in the days of empire, when the British based in St Lucia and the French in Martinique vied with one another for control of the region). The modern equivalent, the Rodney Bay Marina, offers all the necessary marine services, from a shower to rigging repair. There are also services in Marigot Bay and anchorages with buoys up and down the Caribbean coast, including Anse la Raye and Canaries. There is a small mooring fee in these bays.
St Lucia is also the arrival point for the ARC, the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, in which yachts crossing the Atlantic for the Caribbean winter sailing season travel together for company and an added level of safety. After as much as a month at sea the celebrations, which take place in early December, are extremely lively.
There are ports of entry in Rodney Bay, Castries, Marigot Bay and Vieux Fort. All yachts must report to Customs and Immigration before anyone disembarks. You will need to present a valid passport for everyone on board, clearance from the last port of departure and vessel registration papers. Useful numbers in St Lucia include - St Lucia Air & Sea Ports Authority, t 452 2893, Police Marine Unit Castries, t 456 3870, Police Marine Unit Vieux Fort, t 456 3660, Customs and Excise, t 468 4800 and Marine Parks, t 459 5500.
There are of course a large number of day sails that make their way, mostly from the tourist areas in the north down along the Caribbean coast to the Soufrière region. See Day Sails. |
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Scuba Diving/Snorkelling
St Lucia has some good diving, in two main areas, both on the calmer Caribbean side of the island. The most popular is around Soufrière, where the coastline descends as steeply beneath the waterline as it does onshore from the mountains. There are shallow reefs for snorkellers and beginner divers at the sea’s edge, but then there are drop-offs, caves and drift dives. There are even underwater volcanic vents, with thermoclines, or hot and cold patches of water. The other main dive area is Anse Cochon, where there is plenty of snorkelling around the beach that slowly descends in to the depths and a greater diversity of coral and fish. There are two wrecks in Anse Cochon, the Lesleen M, a 165ft freighter deliberately sunk in 1985, and of a dredger that was sunk in 1996.
Our recommended dive operator in St Lucia is Dive Fair Helen.
Snorkelling
There is good and accessible snorkelling in St Lucia. Because the island is volcanic in nature there are trenches, caverns and steep walls furred with coral reefs around which teem a colourful array of Caribbean fish. Sites can be found off many of the beaches along the sheltered west coast, particularly south of Castries. Another option is to snorkel within the marine reserve areas around Soufriere. All of the day sails include a snorkelling stop on their itineraries, or you can go through Dive Fair Helen above. Snorkelling trips include taxi/boat transfers, lunch, mask, fins, snorkel and snorkel vest. |
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Security
Visitors to St Lucia should take the sensible precautions that they would anywhere in the world. You should be careful with personal security in remote areas and after dark and of course you should watch your belongings on beaches everywhere, particularly around Gros Islet. Do not leave valuable items visible from outside your hotel room or in a villa and do not leave doors or windows open at night or when you go out during the day. Similarly, do not leave items visible in your car or unattended on the beach while you are swimming. If driving at night, do not stop for anyone that you do not know.
Whilst out and about along the east and south coast you may well be approached by locals eager to offer directions, tours or information for a small, but unfixed fee. This is not a security situation, but if you would rather not have the help then a polite but firm “no” should suffice. |
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Service Charge/Tipping
Hotels in St Lucia have to apply government tax at 8% to all accommodation bills and then most levy a service charge, usually 10%, on top aswell. If you have booked through a tour operator or wholesaler then it will usually be included depending on you package, but if you are booking direct, make sure you calculate this in when pricing up your holiday. It can make quite a difference to the eventual price.
Tipping for good service is the norm. In restaurants, check the bill, but around 10% should be added. In private villas and apartments, service is not included so all members of staff including, the ground staff, should be tipped on your departure. Check with the local property manager for guidance. |
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Shopping
The shopping in St Lucia is quite good. The island has a large population, so there are some interesting shops serving the islanders as well as the usual range of duty free shops that offer souvenirs to tourists. And with the island’s strong local culture you will find that there are some interesting local products on offer too, for instance the artwork. There are two malls in the north of the island with a good mix of local and tourist shops, with more on their way. Opening hours are generally 8am–4pm, Monday–Friday, and 8am–noon on Saturdays.
Rodney Bay
JQ Mall houses 54 stores and is an easy walk from ‘The Strip’, where there are many other stores and restaurants. For natural health products try Mother Earth Natural Health Centre, t 458 0373 and Simply Natural Health Beauty and Fitness Shop, t 452 0128. It also has an outlet in Castries, on William Peter Boulevard, t 453 6886.
Castries
La Place Carenage and Point Seraphine are the main shopping malls in the capital. Among the t-shirt shops there are duty free shops such as Columbian Emeralds International, Harry Edwards Jewellers, Diamonds in Paradise, Diamonds International and Anju Silver.
Just north of Castries on the main road is the Gablewoods Mall, which offers a range of shops including a Super J with an ATM, S and S bargain shop, Irie Ice cream, Sea Island cotton shop, Sunshine book shop, Phaze 1 hair salon, Claude’s Café, MC Drugstore and Ebenezer fruit shop.
Marigot Bay
The Marina Village - Boutique shopping adjacent to Discovery at Marigot. The village includes Harry Edwards Jewellers, Spa Exotique natural health products, Baguette shop, Marigourmet Supermarket, 1st National Bank, Caribe gift shop, Marrakesh souvenirs, Fired up Ceramics, Marigot Medical Centre, Marina pharmacy, Nautique clothing, Clear Blue pottery, Business Centre, a laundromat and an art gallery.
Vieux Fort
Gablewoods Mall South can be found on the road towards Laborie from Vieux Fort and is a good stop off for the essentials. There is a Super J supermarket, Post Office, RBTT Bank with an ATM and an eye health centre.
The Vieux Fort Plaza is just a few minutes drive from the airport, located by the Phillip ‘Magii’ Marcellin sports grounds. You will find a Super J supermarket, Digicel store, drugstore, clothes boutique and a First Caribbean Bank with an ATM. There is a Shell Garage and Scotiabank branch just across the road.
Supermarkets
Super J in Gablewoods Mall, just north of Castries
Super J in JQ Mall, at the entrance to Rodney Bay
Super J on the main Highway near Rodney Bay.
Super J in the Vieux Fort Plaza
All the supermarkets stay open until quite late in the evenings and open on Sunday mornings.
Markets
The main market is in Castries, close to the terminus of the minibuses. Set in a traditional Caribbean market building, it is mercantile mayhem, with vendors chatting and laughing as they tout their wares. You can get fresh fruit and vegetables and some limited household goods. You will find smaller markets in the main towns to the south of Castries, but in the north of the island you will be dependent on the supermarkets. |
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