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St Kitts map
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Medical
St Kitts has a generally benign climate. There is no malaria in St Kitts, but there are very occasional outbreaks of dengue fever, another mosquito-borne disease which sometimes breaks out after considerable rain. You should take normal precautions against being bitten by a mosquito, including using insect repellent during daylight hours and after sunset.
Vaccinations are not required for entry into St Kitts, though you may wish to check with your GP prior to travelling. There is one exception, for travellers who have come from areas with yellow fever, where a vaccination certificate is required from travellers over one year of age. Check that your coverage for polio and tetanus is up to date.
Hospitals
Joseph N France General Hospital, Basseterre, t 465 2551
Mary Charles Hospital, Molineaux, t 465 7398
Pogson Hospital, Sandy Point, t 465 6231
Pharmacies
The City Drug Store, Fort Street, Basseterre, t 465 2156/4585, sunciti@caribsurf.com
S L Horsford & Co Ltd/Value Mart Pharmacy, West Independence Square Street, t 465 2616, slhorsfd@caribsurf.com |
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Nature
St Kitts has an impressive variety of habitats for a small island. They include coastal mangroves and swamps on the South East Peninsula up to rainforest and even some stunted cloud forest in the heights of the mountain range in the North.
There are over 90 species of birds on the island. Some are endemic, others pass through on their migrations north and south to avoid the winter. With its different habitats you will find different species in different parts of the island. There are several good spots around the salt ponds and lagoons on the South East Peninsula – there is an important nesting area at Nag’s Head Peninsular, where in the delightfully named Shitten Bay you can expect to see frigatebirds, brown pelicans and herons. Elsewhere there are stilts and oystercatchers. But then you will see a completely different variety of bird in the mountainous areas of the north. At lower elevations these might include thrashers, several doves and three different types of hummingbird. Then, as you head into the mountains you will see hawks, vireos and warblers.
Most Caribbean islands do not have very many large mammals apart from domesticated ones such as donkeys and cattle, but in St Kitts there are a couple of surprises. You may see the vervet monkey that was brought to the island from Africa (St Kitts is one of just three islands in the Caribbean where you can see them). In the north of the island you will see them running wild at Brimstone Hill, particularly early and late in the day. You can also see them the Lodge Great House, where there are some in cages. There is an unofficial orphanage there and young monkeys can be handled by visitors). At the Turtle Beach Bar on the South East Peninsula they are tame enough to be fed, and you can buy peanuts for them.
There is also a small community of deer, just a few dozen in total, which were brought to the island from the southern USA by a planter in the late nineteenth century, as game for hunting. They are extremely shy and live mostly on the South East Peninsula, where they thrive on the mixed grassland and dry woodland, and around the Canada Hills area.
Turtle watching is also possible in St Kitts. In the season these creatures drag their way up onto the sand, dig a hole with their rear fins and then lay something over a hundred ping-pong ball sized eggs. Having covered it up, they work their back to the sea, usually digging a couple of fake holes to throw predators off the scent and then swim offshore. If you wish to go turtle-watching, contact your hotel or go through Greg’s Safaris (see Hiking) or Kenneth’s Dive Centre. |
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Nudity
Kittitians are modest about the display of bodies and so (besides being illegal), topless and nude bathing are not appreciated. If you visit town, please do not go in a swimming costume or scant clothing. |
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Passports & Visas
As a European visitor to St Kitts you will require a full 10-year passport which is valid for at least 6 months from your date of entry, along with a valid return airline ticket. Citizens of the USA and Canada can enter with proof of citizenship such as a passport, or a birth certificate with raised seal, supported by government photo ID such as a drivers licence. Any name changes require legal documentation. In addition a valid return airline ticket is required. As of 31 December 2006 however, all American citizens returning home from the Caribbean will need a valid passport. For further information please check with the U.S. Department of State.
American, Canadian, British and EU citizens do not require a visa for short stays. Other nationalities please check with the St Kitts & Nevis Embassy www.stkittsnevis.org/visas.html#com or with your travel organizer for entry/visa requirements. |
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Places to Go/Activities
Basseterre
The capital of St Kitts and Nevis is Basseterre, which takes its name from the French word for ‘leeward’, and so as you would expect it is on the protected side of the island. The town was settled originally by the French, who laid out the grid-iron plan of the streets, but the British moved their capital here from Old Road in 1727. The town’s heyday was in the following century or so, when huge fortunes were being made from sugar, and so many of the smarter buildings date from this time.
Nowadays, Basseterre is a fairly typical small Caribbean town. It has a couple of streets of functional stone warehouses and shops laid along the waterfront, studded in places by monumental buildings and elegant townhouses, and by a couple of formal centrepieces such as Independence Square, the Circus and the churches. The town is built mainly in stone and many of the buildings are topped with wooden upper floors, in traditional ‘skirt and shirt’ design (though the increasing number of modern buildings tend to be built in concrete). It is a pretty and pleasant place to spend a couple of hours.
It is also lively. The Kittitians are a demonstrative people and so there is always something going on and you will be willingly accepted as a part of it. Life has a traditional aspect of ‘when the boat comes in’ and so there is always activity around the dock area. Recently the waterfront was built out here to include a cruise ship dock, bus park and shopping area called Port Zante, marooning the distinctive entry arch, the Treasury Building, inland.
The Circus, Basseterre
The old heart of Basseterre is the Circus. It is surrounded by attractive stone buildings in traditional West Indian style, with lattice work verandas, arcades and jalousie windows. So called because it is a roundabout (said to be modelled after London’s Piccadilly Circus), it is a lively place and has a couple of bars and restaurants overlooking all the street activity. You will also find the main taxi stand here. At the centre of the Circus is the Berkeley Memorial Clock Tower, a handsome, green painted, Victorian four-faced clock tower, which was erected as a memorial to Thomas Berkeley, a planter and president of the St Kitts General Legislative Council.
Independence Square, Basseterre
Set slightly back from the waterfront is Independence Square, which in colonial times was the social, commercial and administrative centre of town. Then it was known as Pall Mall Square, but it was renamed in 1983 when St Kitts & Nevis became independent. It is a pleasant park, surrounded by low fencing and bordered by grand late Georgian town houses which are thought to date back to the 1790s. At one end is the Roman Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, which has twin towers and an impressive rose window. The present building was dedicated in 1928 after the former church of 1856 was demolished in 1927. Independence Square may be quiet and unassuming now, but once it was also the site of the slave market. The slaves were reputedly held in the cellars of the surrounding houses before being sent off to work on the plantations.
National Museum, Old Treasury Building, Basseterre, t 466 9816
The St Kitts and Nevis National Museum is held in the Old Treasury Building, a striking two storey, 19th Century, local stone building in neo-Georgian style (its foundation stone was laid by Lady Haynes-Smith in 1894). Topped by a dome, it has a central arch, through which all arriving visitors would enter Basseterre in times gone by, when their ship put in at the old wooden pier then stretching out from the building. But now it is no longer on the waterfront as a new development was built on reclaimed land next to it. Port Zante includes shops, cafes, a cruise ship terminal, car park and marina.
Over the years the building has housed the Treasury, Customs, the Post Office, the Department of Tourism and other government departments. It was abandoned in 1996 when it no longer suited its purpose as an office block and then sustained damage by storms and hurricanes. In 1999 the St Christopher Heritage Society took over the management project for the restoration of the building for use as a National Museum, a process which is being done in phases. The first exhibits, a collection of Kittitian historical artefacts and old photographs, native flora and fauna, and folk arts, were opened in 2002. The Society currently occupies part of the ground floor. The museum is open Tue-Fri from 9.30am-1pm and 2pm-5pm, and on Mon and Sat from 9.30am-1pm only. Admission is US$2 per person (EC$2 for residents). St Christopher Heritage Society t 465 5584, schs@sisterisles.kn,
www.stkittsheritage.org/
St George’s Anglican Church, Cayon Street, Basseterre
The current building, dating back to 1856, is built on the site of a French Jesuit church erected around 1670. This was burnt down by English soldiers in 1706, re-built four years later and in the 1720s it was renamed St George’s when it was taken over for Anglican worship. The church suffered fire damage again in 1763, was restored before being hit by an earthquake in 1842, then reduced to ruins a year later by a hurricane. In 1844 foundations for a new building were laid, and it was not until 1856 that the present church went up, only to suffer damage by fire in 1867. Restoration work following hurricane damage over the years continues.
Bloody Point, Stone Fort, Palmetto Bay
Site of an unusual combined attack in 1626 by both the French and English settlers upon the Carib Indian community, which saw the massacre of over 2000 Carib Indians. Apparently Carib Indians from neighbouring islands had arrived in support of local Chief Tegreman, who intended to attack the European interlopers to prevent further expansion of their settlements in the island. Unfortunately their planned attack was leaked, and Tegreman’s fears became a reality sooner than he anticipated.
Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park, t 465 6771,
fortressmuseum@caribsurf.com, office t 465 2609,
info@brimstonehillfortress.org, www.brimstonehillfortress.org/
Constructed by the British using slave labour over a hundred year period starting in the 1690s, Brimstone Hill fortress was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 for its cultural, historical and architectural significance. World Heritage considers it “an outstanding, well-preserved example of 17th- and 18th-century military architecture in a Caribbean context. Designed by the British and built by African slave labour, the fortress is testimony to European colonial expansion, the African slave trade and the emergence of new societies in the Caribbean”.
The fortress covers 38 acres, at the centre of which is a prominent Citadel whose walls are constructed predominantly from local volcanic rock from the surrounding hillside and cemented by mortar made from limestone dug from the lower slopes. It is a fine example of a then new style of fortification known as the ‘polygonal system’, and you will see a network of ramparts, barrack buildings, powder magazines and a huge amphitheatrical cistern. Brimstone Hill sits at a height of 800ft, so it offers dramatic vistas all along the island and to other islands nearby. As the name suggests, it has a hellish aspect (there is a sulphurous vent nearby, so it sometime smells diabolic) and it certainly must have been for the soldiers who were besieged for a whole year in 1782. When they eventually surrendered, with not a building left standing, they were permitted to march out with full colours in respect for their bravery.
A small conference facility to seat 24 is located in the restored Prince of Wales Bastion (which housed the Brigade Office and main Guard Barracks), which can also be used for banquets and weddings – larger functions are accommodated in a designated open area where tents can be erected. The fortress is open daily from 09.30am-5.30pm except Christmas Day and Good Friday and has a snack bar and gift shop. Entrance US$8 adults, children half price, residents EC$5.
St. Kitts (Basseterre) Sugar Factory
St Kitts’ main sugar factory, close to the airport, was opened in 1912 as a central facility with modern equipment to replace the many individual mills and boiling houses dotted around the island. Capable of processing the island’s entire sugar harvest, it saved St Kitts’ sugar industry from extinction, following years of decline after the emancipation of slaves and the introduction of a cheaper substitute in Europe in the form of sugar beet. Canes were transported to the factory on a narrow gauge railway that runs around the north of the island (this is still in use today, as a tour, see below). Following the nationalization of all sugar estates in 1974, the government acquired the factory, and unfortunately after years of financial loss, struggling to keep the industry going, the last canes were delivered to the factory in July 2005. The closure of the factory heralds the demise of the sugar industry in St Kitts, which like Barbados started in the mid 17th century. The railway used for transporting canes is now used by the St Kitts Scenic Railway as a tourist attraction. ‘The Sugar Train’ transports visitors on a 3 ½ hour trip around the extremely pretty north of the island.
Charles Fort, Cleverly Hill nr Sandy Point Town
Built by the English in 1672 on the hillside just under Brimstone Hill and abandoned in 1854. In 1890 it became a leper asylum, which closed in 1996.
Lodge Great House & Gardens, Lodge Village, t 465 6548, info@lodgegreathouse.com
An early 18th century plantation great house set within 2 ½ acres of landscaped, tropical gardens on a former sugar estate to the north of Ottley’s. Footpaths wind through fruit trees and tropical flowers including orchids, which attract humming birds. You will no doubt come across the inquisitive monkeys who seem to enjoy being photographed. Views across the Atlantic take in the islands of St Barths and St Maarten. A shop within the house displays local artwork, with local crafts on sale. The Terrace restaurant and bar serves lunch and cocktails.
Mount Liamuiga, North West Range
The highest point in St Kitts is Mt Liamuiga at 3792ft, which is at the northern end of the island. It is a dormant volcano and has a crater about a mile-wide whose lip is at 2800 feet. The whole area is covered by dense rainforest and at higher elevations with dwarf cloudforest , so it makes a great hike. You can climb to the highest point and if it is dry you can descend the 1000ft into the crater. You should be an experienced hiker to take up the challenge (medically fit), which takes the best part of a day. Greg’s Safaris, t 465 4121, g-safari@caribsurf.com, offer a guided hike to the crater (8 hours) which includes refreshments and a picnic lunch.
Romney Manor Gardens, Wingfield nr Old Road, t 465 6253
A former sugar estate dating back to the early 17th century (as was the adjoining Wingfield Estate, which it is said was once the home of the Jefferson family, relations of Thomas Jefferson who became the 3rd American President). Caribelle Batik was set up here in 1974 in the remains of the plantation great house and the 10 acre site has a botanical garden which boasts a centuries-old Saman Tree. This is a popular spot for weddings.
Carib Petroglyphs, Wingfield, Old Road Town
Original Carib Indian carvings on a large volcanic rock, just off the road to the Wingfield Manor Estate. They depict delightful lozenge-bodied cartoon characters, which have been painted white for effect.
Black Rocks, Bellevue Village
Dramatic volcanic rock formations (a result of early pyroclastic flows from Mt Liamuiga) shaped by centuries of sea erosion. |
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Places of Worship
The official denomination of St Kitts is Anglican and as you travel around the various parishes in the island you will see their parish churches. There are also many other denominations too, including Roman Catholic (there is a cathedral in Basseterre), Methodist, Moravian, Baptist, Pentecostal, Seventh-Day Adventist and Church of God.
For Anglican and Roman Catholic services, plus one or two others should you wish for a change, see below:
Anglican - There are eleven parish churches including:
St George’s Anglican Church, Cayon Street, Basseterre, t 465 2167
Sunday for Mass 8am and Evensong 6pm, Tuesday and Friday for Holy Communion 6pm and Wednesday for Bible Study 7.15pm.
St Mary’s, Dieppe Bay, t 466 6398
Holy Eucharist at 7am on 1st Sundays and 9.15am on 3rd Sundays, and Mattins at 9.15am on 2nd, 4th and 5th Sundays.
Roman Catholic
Co-Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Independence Square, Basseterre, t 465 2464
Mass times Sunday 8.30am, Monday, Friday and Saturday 7pm, Tuesday to Thursday 6am.
In addition to the cathedral in Basseterre, there are also churches in Molyneaux, Sandy Point and Old Road.
Moravian
Zion Moravian Church, Basseterre, t 465 2402
Sunday services at 9.30am and 6.30pm. Sunday School at 8.30am.
Methodist
Wesley Methodist Church, Seaton Street, Basseterre, t 465 2346
Sunday service 9am.
Baptist
Calvary Baptist Church, St. Paul’s Village
Weekly telecast and are frequently on the radio. Sunday service 10am.
Antioch Baptist Church, Johnsons Village, Basseterre
The timing of services is likely to change. Please check locally. |
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Real Estate
The real estate market in St Kitts has seen an extraordinary upswing over the past few years. For a long time the island was in the doldrums but it has suddenly seen an explosion of building - and a certain rise in the price of land, though much of it is still considerably less expensive than most islands in the area.
The upswing can be dated to 2004, pretty much to the opening of the Marriot hotel on the Atlantic side of Frigate Bay. This put St Kitts on the map for two main reasons, first because it introduced better airlift and second because of the hotel’s conference business, which attracted the type of clients that were likely to buy property and, in an island that was pretty much undeveloped, plots for building.
By far the most popular area for development has been Frigate Bay, the centre of the island’s tourism industry. This was largely Crown land that has been released. Gradually, though, this is changing, in part because the land is largely used up (development is now creeping up the hill out of the bay), but also because the general interest in St Kitts has stimulated projects elsewhere around the island too.
Although a road was built along the South-Eastern peninsular in the early 1990s it has taken a decade for interest in that area to take off. This is now underway, particularly at the far south eastern tip of the island where there are some independent villas and a large, top of the range development. The land in the north of St Kitts, which was used to grow sugar cane until recently (the industry pretty much stopped in St Kitts in 2006), is now lying fallow and this has also begun to attract small amounts of development. There is a plantation house project at Rawlins Plantation and there has been an attempted golf course development too.
On St Kitts we recommend the following real estate agents -
| | St Kitts RealtyA real estate company that specialises in the sale and sometimes development of land in the South-eastern peninsular of St Kitts (and occasionally in Nevis). St Kitts Realty, which is headed up by Ricky Pereira, has offices in Basse-Terre and in Turtle Bay and has sales particularly in Frigate Bay and around the tip of the island at Turtle Bay Estates. |
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Restaurants
There is reasonable depth to the restaurants on St Kitts, and with the new development they are beginning to offer more variety to straightforward international fare and local food. There is no tip top cuisine on the island as yet, but there are some good dining rooms and some of the top hotels do offer very good meals. There are plenty of easy-going places to eat on the beachfront of course.
The bulk of the ‘tourist’ restaurants are in Frigate Bay, where you will find a few independent pizzerias and burger joints as well as all the beach bars along the Caribbean side. These offer simple and satisfying food both at lunch and in the evenings, particularly from Thursdays to Sundays when ‘the Strip’ is the place to party anyway. The popular dish is freshly grilled lobster. In Basseterre you will find a mix of restaurants, several that obviously appeal to visitors (including the many cruise ship passengers), but also many local restaurants that serve West Indian food and are fun to try. Friday and Saturday evening is barbecue time along the streets of Basseterre, with all sorts of fish and chicken grilled on makeshift kitchens set up on the pavements.
Then of course there are several fast food restaurants, KFC and Subway.
Not to be forgotten, if you are taking a tour of the island, or if you would like a romantic dinner, are the plantation inns in the north of the island, Ottleys, Golden Lemon and Rawlins.
Note: Very few of the beach bars and smaller restaurants will accept credit cards, so please check in advance. A number of the small establishments in Frigate Bay close for a break between mid August and early October.
A 9% Government Tax is added to all bills and in many cases a 10% Service Charge will be automatically added at the same time.
Prices are for a main course (excluding steak and lobster, which are more expensive) are as follows: expensive – US$20 and above, moderate US$10-20 and inexpensive US$10 and below.
Around Basseterre
Ballahoo Restaurant, The Circus, t 465 4197, VHF channel 16, www.ballahoo.com
Ballahoo is set on an upper floor overlooking the Circus in the heart of Basseterre. It has cheerful Caribbean décor with brightly painted woodwork and chairs and an open fronted veranda dining area which is lit with fairy lights at night. The menu is international and Caribbean cuisine, with sub sandwiches, burgers, beef enchiladas, seafood paella, chilli shrimps, coconut chicken curry, conch fritters, chicken roti and vegetarian dishes. Full service bar at the rear. Prints by artist Rosey Cameron Spencer are displayed and for sale. Open 8am-10pm. Closed Sunday. A popular spot for both locals and tourists.
Circus Grill Bar & Restaurant, Palms Arcade, Bay Road, t 465 0143, circusgrill@caribsurf.com, moderate
Also upstairs on the corner of a small enclosed garden in the heart of Basseterre, with a breezy veranda extending around to face the Circus. The menu is a mix of international and local cuisine and includes grilled seafood, steaks, ribs, burgers, chicken, substantial rotis and daily specials such as goat water (Saturdays) and their Friday West Indian buffet with coconut dumpling, breadfruit pie, salt fish, chicken curry, pumpkin fritters, jerk pork and fresh fish. Closed Sundays. Open for lunch and dinner.
Fisherman’s Wharf, Wigley Avenue, Fortlands, t 465 2754, otistkitts@caribsurf.com
Well established, casual, wooden deck with rustic nautical décor and wooden picnic tables, right on the waterfront with views across the bay and Basseterre. Part of the Ocean Terrace Inn, it is popular with both locals and tourist and attracts a lively crowd on weekends when there is occasional live music. Large open air charcoal grill where fresh seafood, fish and meats are cooked while you watch. Favourites include conch chowder, conch fritters, jerk chicken wings and grilled lobster. Open for dinner nightly from 6.30pm-11pm. On Friday nights a Fish Fry is set up on the street next door.
Oasis Café, TDC Mall, Fort Street, t 465 7065, rikki_oasiscafe_@hotmail.com inexpensive
Courtyard setting amongst palms in the mall, the place to go for a casual local lunch, for local businesspeople as well as travellers. Service can be a bit slow. Menu items include saltfish and johnny cakes for breakfast, and for lunch soups, salads, stewed chicken or mutton, BBQ ribs or chicken, creole fish, and steamed pot fish. On Wednesdays there is an all-you-can-eat buffet. Open for breakfast and lunch from 7.30am to 4pm. Closed Sundays except when cruise ships are in port.
Serendipity Restaurant & Lounge Bar, Fortlands, t 465 9999, info@serendipitystkitts.com www.serendipitystkitts.com, expensive
Located on the hillside next door to the Ocean Terrace Inn, Serendipity has a large covered dining terrace with views across Basseterre and its bay, and an inside dining room and bar decorated throughout in cheerful tones of yellow and blue. Run by owners Alexander James (chef) and Pauline Horton (manager), whose many years in the Caribbean, America and Europe have brought a diverse menu. Innovative starters include Caribbean Bouillabaisse, gravade of red snapper, coconut coated tiger shrimps, duck liver mousse served with red onion marmalade or Cajun dusted goats cheese salad with asparagus tips. Main courses include Hereford beef, cheese and bacon burger, pan-seared Cajun seasoned grouper or yellow fin tuna, jerked chicken supreme, pan roasted American ‘Mapleleaf’ duck breast on a fruit and herb stuffing with Cointreau sauce. There is also an extensive wine list. Open for lunch Tuesday-Friday and dinner Tuesday-Sunday.
StoneWalls Tropical Bar and Eating Place, Princes Street, t 465 5248, garrysteckles@hotmail.com, moderate
Caribbean-style gastro pub created by owners Garry and Wendy Steckles in 1993 in old stone walls built by the French in the 1800s. Now surrounded by lush greenery, it has a covered dining area and a cosy bar for pre-dinner cocktails. It is also an early evening meeting spot for a quiet drink and a wide selection of background music from jazz, to reggae, salsa, motown or sixties rock n’ roll. The ever-changing blackboard menu might included pan-charred squid in a lemon-olive oil-garlic sauce or mussels marinara to start, followed by stir-fried chicken in a black bean-chili sauce, pan-seared fresh local mahi mahi with lemon-caper sauce or the popular barbecued baby back ribs. Open Mon-Fri from 5pm-11pm.
Waterfalls Restaurant, Ocean Terrace Inn, t 465 2754, otistkitts@caribsurf.com, expensive
A well established hotel dining room with a good reputation, set in an open-fronted deck overlooking the hotel’s lush water garden and murals of Kittitian rainforest scenes by well known local artist Rosey Cameron Smith. Popular for its West Indian buffet every Friday night (see under Food & Cooking), with a live steel band and fashion show in season, and a buffet brunch on Sundays from 12-2.30pm, which is a favourite with local families. The a la carte menu is a blend of Caribbean and international cuisine such as pepper pot, jerk crusted rack of lamb, pork Wellington with port wine and apple foam, and chicken supreme filled with pistachio breadfruit mash. Open daily for breakfast, lunch (closed Saturday) and dinner.
Beyond Basseterre
The Golden Lemon Inn and Villas, Dieppe Bay, t 465 7260, info@goldenlemon.com, expensive
A charming and elegant spot near the northern tip of the island, set in a restored 17th century former French merchant’s manor house and trading post. Popular for its Sunday Brunch on the covered garden gallery and candlelit dinners in the elegant main dining room, amongst an enchanting collection of antiques. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations required for dinner.
Rawlins Plantation Inn, St Paul’s, t 465 6221, info@rawlinsplantation.com, expensive
A classic, traditional plantation house retreat renowned for its West Indian buffet lunch. The kitchen uses fresh, organic home grown salads, vegetables, fruits and herbs, and produce from local farmers and fishermen. The lunch menu, prepared by the same cook for over twenty years, features dishes such as fungee and saltfish, candied sweet potato, meat balls in ginger sauce, peas and rice, salt fish fritters, curried chicken, jerk pork and soursop sorbet. It is a classic stop on an island tour. In the evenings they offer a four course menu (US$65 plus tax and service) by candlelight, which combines Caribbean and international cuisine with flair. Starters include creamy sweet potato soup or grilled eggplant with balsamic dressing and main courses include seared breast of duck with orange, honey and chilli, pan fried mahi mahi drizzled with anchovy-caper butter and jerk rubbed tilapia with creole sauce. Open for lunch and dinner. Reservations required.
The Royal Palm, Ottley’s Plantation Inn, Ottley’s, t 475 7234, ottleys@caribsurf.com
A wonderful setting in the stone walls of the former sugar factory on a plantation estate high above the Atlantic Ocean. The canopied dining terrace (mainly lunchtime) looks up over lawns to the restored 18th century great house and the main dining room, with its wooden floor and candlelit tables, looks down to the Atlantic. There is a daily changing, creative menu of both local and international cuisines, with many ingredients imported especially to maintain a high standard. Dishes have included West Indian peanut soup or Caribbean crab cakes, roasted beet and shaved onion salad, pan seared Argentinian sea bass with orange-Pernod sauce, curried seafood risotto of scallops, shrimp and local fish with raisins and herbs or Australian rack of lamb with moutarde de Meaux followed by a choice of desserts. There is a set four course meal (US$72 plus tax and service) or an a la carte menu. Ottley’s Sunday Champagne Brunch is also a favourite – a glass of rum punch or a Champagne mimosa with tropical fruit and pastry platter, followed by classic West Indian eggs benedict with passion fruit hollandaise, fried plantain and curried fries or sweet mascarponi cheese and pineapple stuffed French toast with a guava-citrus sauce served with bacon. Open for lunch and dinner. Reservations required for Sunday brunch and dinner.
Sprat Net, Old Road Town, t 662 5688, chiefscallywag@hotmail.com, inexpensive-moderate
A hugely popular seafood eatery on the waterfront in Old Road town, informal and simple, open-sided with views to the sea and picnic benches under a corrugated tin roof. Owned by local fishermen and brothers, Jack and Marcus Spencer, the Sprat Net serves freshly caught fish (pick your own) and lobster, chicken and ribs, all grilled to order served, with maybe peas and rice, coleslaw, jonny bakes or corn on the cob and a cold beer. It is a bit of trek out of Basseterre along the west coast road, but Sprat Net is a favourite night spot with live music on Fridays and Sundays in the winter season. Open from 6pm onwards. No credit cards.
Around Frigate Bay
Bobsy’s Bar & Grill, above Frigate Bay, t 466 6133, bobsy@caribsurf.com, moderate
Easy going local eatery located upstairs in a modern complex on the road over to Frigate Bay. There is an air-conditioned dining area, a large bar and a covered dining patio with views to the bay. Serves mostly Caribbean cuisine, with daily lunch and dinner specials, and is popular for its fresh, grilled lobster with a passion fruit butter sauce. Also a late night party spot with occasional live music, DJs and karaoke on weekends. Happy hour 5pm-7pm. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Marshall’s, Horizons Villas, Frigate Bay t 466 8245, info@marshalls-stkitts.com, www.marshalls-stkitts.com, expensive
Considered by many as to be St Kitts finest restaurant and a popular choice for a special occasion, Marshall’s has a poolside setting with tables set under a long white canvas awning, hung with elegant drapes and white fairy lights. The Jamaican born chef has created a menu which combines international and Caribbean cuisine, including starters such as conch chowder, Caribbean ackee and saltfish served on toast and a seafood Coquilles St Jacques of conch, lobster, shrimp, and mushrooms. Main courses include crab ravioli served in a creamy tomato sauce, seared scallops in olive oil, butter and lemon juice, pan-roasted Chilean sea bass served with lemon cilantro sauce and breast of duck pan-seared served with a raspberry sauce. Reservations required.
Monkey Bar & Restaurant, Frigate Bay (south) beach, t 465 8050, inexpensive-moderate
A favourite among locals and visitors alike, the Monkey Bar has been run for over two decades by Kittitian Roy Gumbs, a former Commonwealth Middleweight Boxing Champion. It sits in the midst of a string of other beach bars and shacks, less rustic looking than some of its neighbours, set around with an octagonal wooden bar on a raised, covered dining deck. Serves fresh grilled lobster with garlic butter and many other seafood dishes. Gets lively on weekends with music played late into the night. Open for lunch and dinner.
Mr X’s Shiggidy Shack Bar & Grill, Frigate Bay (south) beach, t 762 3983, info@MrXShiggidyShack.com, www.mrxshiggidyshack.com, inexpensive-moderate
A rustic affair, perfect for a laid back, barefoot supper in a lively crowd. The Shiggidy Shack, the most popular of the string of beach bars along Frigate Bay beach, is literally a collection of wooden shacks and picnic benches on the sand. On Friday nights it attracts the after-work crowd of mostly locals, veterinary students from Ross University and ex-pats who gather to watch the sunset then sit down for a simple grilled lobster supper – well priced at US$22. Other items from the grill in the basic looking open-air kitchen include jerk chicken, barbecue spare ribs, freshly caught fish, shrimp, beef, chicken, fish or cheese burgers, roti. Sunday afternoons live band and a bonfire with fire-eating and live music on Thursday nights. Full Moon Party with bonfire and music for dancing. No credit cards.
Oasis Sports Bar & Grill, Frigate Bay (south) beach, t 466 9332, moderate
Located at the north end of the beach and popular with a younger set looking for a lively vibe. A bar with some ‘fast’ food (kitchen stays open until 2am on Friday and Saturday) - barbecue ribs, chicken, burgers, pizzas (thin Italian style), tacos, steaks, buffalo wings and seafood. Twenty TVs showing sports action, slot machines. Outside dancing area. Popular with the veterinary school students. Happy Hour from 4pm-6pm. Open Weds-Fri from 4pm and from noon Sat-Sun. Closed Tuesday.
PJ’s Bar & Restaurant, Frigate Bay (north), t 465 8373, inquiry@pjsrestaurantstkitts.com, www.pjsrestaurantstkitts.com, moderate-expensive
Popular Italian restaurant run by Canadian owners Pat and Jude since 1987. Their thin crust pizzas attract a loyal following, particularly for the delightfully named Garbage Pizza, which has everything piled on. Also chicken wings, bruschettas, soups, salads, a range of pasta dishes, calazones with fillings like meatballs with tomato sauce and mozzarella and with roasted red peppers and mozzarella. Finish with home made rum cake or tiramisu. Popular for a family meal out, but also doubles as a late night liming spot. Happy hour 9pm-10pm, open Tues-Sun from 5.30pm. Closed Mondays.
Rock Lobster Bar & Restaurant, St Christopher Club, Frigate Bay t 466 1092, moderate- expensive
A seafood restaurant with a lobster speciality. Cheery modern interior with some traditional West Indian touches and a small bar area tucked into one corner which becomes a late night drinking spot on weekends. Set back off the road on the north side of Frigate Bay, with some tables and chairs out on the patio for alfresco dining. Closed Wednesdays.
Sunset Café, Timothy Beach Resort, Frigate Bay (south), t 465 8597, moderate
Casual open-sided dining room above the seafront at the southern end of (south) Frigate Bay. You can opt to dine alfresco or watch the chef at work through a large bar hatch inside. A varied local and international menu includes both local and international dishes such as conch fritters, fungi and fish, roti, burgers, BBQ ribs and grilled fish. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. |
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Rum
Like many Caribbean islands, St Kitts has a long tradition of rum production. Until recently the island had all the molasses it needed from the sugar that grew all over the northern part of the island. Now it distils with imported molasses. Kittitian rums include Brinley Gold, which has a shop, see below, CSR (from Cane Spirit Rothschild, actually no longer produced but still available) and local white rum Belmont Rum.
St Kitts Rum Company & Rum Shoppe, Port Zante, t 456 7748, www.brinleygoldrum.com
Brinley Gold Rum is a family-owned brand of rums that is blended and bottled in St Kitts and then sold in the St Kitts Rum Shoppe. Launched in 2002, the award-winning range comes in a number of flavours including vanilla, mango, coffee and toffee. There are free rum tastings in the shop in Port Zanthe. |
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Scuba Diving
The diving of St Kitts (and Nevis) ranks pretty well among the Caribbean islands. Most of it is reef diving, with coral garden formations, drop offs and some pinnacles, though there is a handful of wrecks too. The dive sites are almost all on the leeward shore of St Kitts, mostly to the south of Basseterre along the South East peninsular. Several are beyond the south-eastern tip of the island in the Narrows, the shallow channel between St Kitts and neighbouring Nevis.
Favourite dives located in the channel include the Rock and Monkey Shoal, which is a very pretty coral area at around 50-60 ft. Nagg’s Head starts at 40 ft and drops to 80ft and has ledges of coral including black coral. There are coral areas directly off Basseterre at 70 or 80 ft. Farther north, directly below Brimstone Hill in the northern part of the island, is Sandy Point/Paradise Reef. A coral wall starts at 40-50ft and descends to 120 ft. Five anchors are visible and you can see other evidence of old ships in this area.
The four wrecks are all off the northern part of the island, to the north of Basseterre. There is no penetration inside the wrecks, but they are fun to dive and are used for training. The old freighter the River Tar sits upright in the north of the island in 45-55 ft of water. It has good marine life including eels, sting-rays and sand sharks. The Corinthian is another freighter that sits in 40-50 ft.
Our recommended scuba dive operator in St Kitts is -
Kenneth’s Dive Centre
The longest-established scuba diving operator in St Kitts, owned and run by Kittitian Kenneth Samuel. The dive shop is located on the waterfront in Basseterre, close to Port Zante, the dock for their three dive boats and the arrival point for cruise ships. A Padi Dive Center, Kenneth’s Dive Center offers courses up to Dive Master certification level. Also snorkelling trips. |
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Security
As a visitor to St Kitts you should take sensible precautions with regard to your personal security and belongings, as you would anywhere in the world nowadays, including the UK and US. Do not leave doors or windows open at night or when you go out during the day and do not leave valuable items, such as your camera, visible from outside. Also, do not leave items visible in your car or unattended on the beach, particularly in remote areas of the island. |
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Service Charge/Tipping
A service charge of 10% will generally be added to your restaurant and hotel bill on St Kitts. Tipping for good service in bars is always appreciated and the norm for this is 10-15% as well. In villas, service charge is generally not included in the cost, so it is certainly expected that you tip your staff. |
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Shopping
Most of the shopping in St Kitts is in Basseterre, scattered at strategic points of the pretty town, particularly around the Circus and Independence Square and latterly at the cruise ship terminal Port Zanthe. Of course some of the larger hotels have shops too. There are some good artists working in St Kitts and Nevis, so if this particularly interests you, see under Art, Artisans and Galleries.
Ashburry’s, Liverpool Row, t 465 8175
Duty free store which also has a small outlet at the airport.
Brown Sugar 2, 33 Central Street, Basseterre
Popular boutique featuring collections by local fashion designer Judith Rawlins, who has her Brown Sugar Design studio located just across the road.
Island Fever, The Circus, t 465 3282
Clothing and craft work (some from St Kitts) including straw hats and bags, patterned material and t-shirts.
Island Hopper, The Circus, t 465 1640
Clothes and other beach and holiday items such as beach bags, swimsuits and sunglasses.
Ram’s Duty Free, Liverpool Row, t 465 1745
Duty free products from around the world including photographic and musical equipment, alcohol and tobacco and jewellery.
Port Zante, waterfront, Basseterre
A range of Duty Free stores selling jewellery, electronic items, alcohol, tobacco and crafts. They including Driftwood, Del Sol, Oro Diamante and Brinley Gold (see Rum, above).
Outside Basseterre
Caribelle Batik, Romney Manor, Old Road, t 465 6253, batikskb@caribsurf.com
A batik factory set in a very attractive former plantation estate house and ten acres of gardens on the leeward coast north-west of Basseterre. The factory, which was set up in 1974 by owner Maurice Widdowsson, uses pure Sea Island Cotton to create colourful wall hangings and tropical clothing. The batik process can be seen in action – designs are hand painted onto the material in a mixture of bees’ and paraffin wax and it is then dipped and painted with different colour dyes before being boiled to remove the wax. There is of course a shop. Do note that this is a popular stop for cruise ship passengers on island tours in the winter season and can get busy. Open 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri and occasionally on weekends in season (end Oct to end Apr) when large cruise ships are in port.
Supermarkets
Ram’s Supermarket, Bay Road, Basseterre, t 465 2145, ramskb@caribsurf.com
General supermarket with a selection of fresh and frozen foods, plus wines and spirits.
Valu Mart, Horseford’s Commercial Complex, Wellington Road, Basseterre t 465 4161
Supermarket with in store bakery, deli and pharmacy. |
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