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St Barths map
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Airport
Arriving by air in St Barths is not for the faint-hearted. The landing strip is short, it leads straight into the sea and inconveniently, where you’d like the pilot to be lining up for landing, there is a hill. All in all, it is fitting that the small flat area on which it is situated is called the ‘Plaine de la Tourmente’ (Plain of Torment). It’s exciting, though. Watching from the ground, the planes seem to dangle in the sky like a toy on a piece of string (sometimes held by a malevolent child). Inside the plane, landing has a stress quotient. If you dare look, that is. All of this said, the pilots are excellent, and they make the landing many times a day. It is fun to stand and watch them coming into land, either on the aforementioned hill, or from St Jean beach.
The largest aeroplanes that can land in St Barths are 19-seaters (Dorniers and Twin Otters). They are STOL (Short Take off and Landing) and their pilots have to have a special licence, which must be renewed each year. Their record is generally extremely good. Still, if you decide that the landing really isn’t for you then ferries also make the crossing from St Maarten, though the timings are not necessarily convenient to meet the international flights. Otherwise you can always hire a speedboat from St Maarten. It’s expensive, but they are available.
Most flights originate in Dutch St Maarten (or the French side St Martin), which is just 10 minutes flying time from St Barths, but local companies will charter from as far away as San Juan, Antigua and even Barbados (see Getting to St Barths). The runway closes at night, so the last planes are allowed land and leave 15 minutes before sunset. The strip remains closed until 15 minutes before sunrise. Flights only leave at night in the case of a medical or security emergency.
The terminal building in St Barths is modern and plush and is topped by a pint-size observation tower. If you are picking up a car on arrival, turn right out of the arrivals area and you will find the car hire booths beyond the check-in desks. On departure you can find a drink or a snack upstairs (or you can nip across the road to the shopping centre), but there are no shops or cafés once you have entered the departure lounge.
You can check in for your flight fairly late in St Barths. Because no large planes can land on the island there is never that much of a queue at the check-in desks and the process is generally pretty smooth. The official check-in time for most companies is 60 minutes before departure of course, so don’t push it, but locals tend to arrive around 30 minutes before departure.
Taxi rates from the airport are as follows:
Gustavia - €9
Flamands - €11
Saline Beach - €11
Gouverneur Beach - €18
St Jean - €9
Pointe Milou - €14
Le Toiny - €18 |
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Banks
The banks on the island are concentrated mainly in Gustavia:
Crédit Agricole, rue du Bord de Mer, t 590 52 42 83
Banque des Antilles Françaises, BDAF, rue Samuel Fahlberg, t 590 29 68 30
Banque Française Commerciale, BFC, rue du Générale de Gaulle, t 590 27 62 62
Banque Nationale de Paris, BNP, rue du Bord de Mer, t 590 27 63 70
There are two others opposite the airport in St Jean:
BFC, Galeries du Commerce, t 590 27 65 88
BRED, Centre Commercial La Savane, St Jean, t 590 52 06 00
All these banks have ATMs (there is also an ATM in the Post Office in Gustavia), but you should be aware that because of demand these are emptied quite quickly during weekends in season. For American visitors it is important to note that the ATMs do not work with American bank cards (they work on the European PIN system). However, there are Bureaux d’Echange opposite the airport and in Gustavia, both of which are open on Saturdays. |
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Bars & Nightlife
There is a huge number of bars around St Barths. Of course, in good French style, many are actually restaurants but they don’t mind you dropping in for a drink before they become busy with diners, or afterwards of course. Gustavia is a very pretty harbour and there are several bars on the waterfront where you can linger to a backdrop of yachts at anchor and watch the dinghies running back and forth. For beach bars, see Beach Bars, some of which are also regular restaurants of course.
In Gustavia
Bête à Z’Ailes
Waterfront deck overlooking the boardwalk and the yachts at anchor in the harbour, music and good if simple fare.
La Cantina
Also waterfront, just across from the major yachts, salads and juices by day on the raised deck, cocktails in the evenings.
Le Select, rue du Général de Gaulle
Very popular bar at the cross-roads in town, courtyard setting and inside, often live bands and rumbustious behaviour by night.
Le Bar de l’Oubli, rue du Général de Gaulle
On an open-sided deck diagonally opposite Le Select, quieter, a spot to recover and watch the crowds go by.
La Mandala, rue Thiers
Oriental décor on pretty deck high above the town, excellent for a sunset view and a start to the evening, sometimes jazz evenings.
Iguane, Le Carré d’Or shopping centre
Tapas and sushi in a cool spot in town, hip music, they do deliver.
Le Repaire des Rebelles et des Emigrés, Quai de la République
Open-sided Caribbean deck, popular stopping point after work.
Do Brasil, Shell Beach
Hip spot just outside town with all day music and a sunset view.
St Jean
Zanzibarth
Stylish, minimal setting on a wooden deck surrounded by greenery, bar and restaurant.
Nikki Beach
The most popular bar on the island, a beach bar by day with seating on low oriental loungers, evening too, eerie lighting on the beach.
The Rocks, Eden Rock
Tables ranged on the side of Eden Rock, lively atmosphere for an early evening drink, some light fare.
East of St Jean
K’Fe Massaï, Lorient
African inspired decoration but plenty of wines by the glass.
Le Ti St Barth, Pointe Milou
A restaurant that turns into a bar at any time of night, outrageous shows and often dancing.
There is often live music at the Bête a Z’ailes (also called BAZ) and Buena Vista, both of which are in Gustavia. For a more leisurely musical accompaniment to your early evening drinks, check Mandala, the Ti Zouk Café and the Guanahani Hotel.
There are a couple of discotheques on the island: Casa Nicky in Gustavia and Feeling in Lurin, high above the town. |
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Beach Bars
As you would expect, the beach bars in St Barths are a little special, not at all the rustic shacks that suit the Caribbean elsewhere. Instead they stylish and hip. Some people dress up to go to them rather than dress down. There may even be lunchtime fashion shows to keep you entertained. Mostly they are actually restaurants, so you can linger over a meal and a couple of bottles of white wine before heading off for more sundrenched inactivity on the sand.
Sand Bar (at Eden Rock), St Jean Beach
Delightful restaurant under canvas cover on St Jean beach, light but fine fare.
Nikki Beach, St Jean Beach
Incredibly stylish stopover, of Miami Beach and St Tropez fame. White walls, and muslin drapes and lots of cushions offset by hefty, low Oriental furniture, giving onto the white sand of St Jean beach.
Do Brasil, Shell Beach, Gustavia
Cool daytime hangout just outside Gustavia.
Lafayette Club, Grand Cul de Sac
Only in season, dining room on open deck with pool, boutique and fashion shows.
Cocoloba, Grand Cul de Sac
Simple, easy-going affair on the sand, looking out onto the shallow water and waves breaking on the distant reef of Grand Cul de Sac. |
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Beaches
The beaches in St Barths are excellent. The island has superb light-coloured sand which in most cases is protected from the ocean swell by a reef or by the island itself. As elsewhere in the Caribbean, all the beaches are public below the high water mark but there is established access to them. Parking is another matter. Some beaches have car parks, but for St Jean Beach you will just have to find any space at the roadside that you can.
Although most of the beaches in St Barths have some development, a few are completely untouched, without bars or even beach facilities. So if you are going to one of the remoter beaches on the south coast (Anse de Grande Saline and Anse du Gouverneur) or Anse du Grand Colombier at the northwestern tip (to which there is not even a road, so you have to hike or go by boat), you should remember to take all the water and food that you will want. It is possible to order a picnic hamper from Rôtisserie St Jean (in the Vaval Shopping Centre behind St Jean beach) and other shops.
On most beaches you will find tin cans hanging on string. These are for cigarette ends. Please take litter with you. Toplessness is of course normal on the beaches in St Barths. Nudity is not officially permitted, but does take place. See Nudity.
The beaches on St Barths:
St Jean
The liveliest on the island, extremely busy during season, when the crowds collect around the bars and hotel restaurants. Two lovely curves of sand either side of Eden Rock that dip into shallow, swimmable water. Some sports. The planes take off right over St Jean Beach.
Lorient
Pretty section of excellent sand, no facilities, supermarket in the town.
Anse de Grand Cul de Sac
Very shallow, reef-protected water giving onto a narrow strip of sand. The ‘sports’ beach. Atlantic facing, it has wind- and watersports (windsurfing and kitesurfing). Some bars and restaurants.
Anse de Petit Cul de Sac
Quiet and remote, small strip of rough sand, no facilities.
Grande Anse des Salines
Wonderful sand, in a large bay remote on the south of the island, completely undeveloped, but a couple of restaurants not far away (walkable) where you can head for lunch in the heat of the day.
Anse du Gouverneur
More superb sand on the south of the island, down an impossibly steep hill, no facilities or bars.
Shell Beach
Just over the hill from Gustavia, sometimes rocky, with a beach bar.
Anse de Public, Anse Corossol
North of Gustavia, overlooked by local villages but still nice strips of sand.
Anse du Grand Colombier
A nice protected beach with white sand and some rocks, excellent snorkelling. No bars or facilities. Remote, you must either hike in or go by boat, day trips.
Anse des Flamands
A huge and wide strip of superb sand and stunning sea, and a couple of hotel dining rooms to retreat to. With no reef offshore, when the swell is up the waves on Flamands beach can be large and powerful.
Anse des Cayes
As the name suggests, plenty of reefs offshore here (caye is French for reef), but pretty sand and good walking.
Ile Fourchue
Offshore island with a pretty beach in a safe anchorage, popular with day trips. |
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Calendar of Events
2009
JANUARY
04 Jan, Three Kings Day, family celebration with traditional ‘galette de rois’ cake.
08-19 Jan, 25th St Barth Music Festival, jazz, classical and chamber music, opera and ballet, with an amazing cast of musicians, some of whom come from the major orchestras around the world, at Lorient and Gustavia churches.
FEBRUARY
20-25 Feb, Carnival, Costumed street parades in Gustavia starting with schoolchildren on 20 Feb with the Carnival School Parade, culminating on 24 Feb with the Mardi Gras parade in Gustavia and 25 Feb, Mercredi des Cendres (Ash Wednesday) when Vaval, the spirit of French Caribbean Carnival, is taken to Shell Beach in a procession of revellers dressed in black and white, and burned.
MARCH
26-29 Mar, St Barths Bucket, a three day mega-yacht regatta.
APRIL
25-30 Apr, 14th St Barth Film Festival, Cinema Caraibe, showcase of Caribbean filmmaking with screening of films from around the region, in many languages.
MAY
01 May, Fête de la Mer (Festival of the Sea), with marine themed games and entertainment on the Public beach.
01-15 May, Theatre Festival of Saint-Barthelemy.
JUNE
01-15 Jun, Caraibes Football Stars Tour, former/pro footballers v St Barths
JULY
14 Jul, Bastille Day.
18-19 Jul, Fête de l'Anse des Cayes et Anse des Lézards a parish festival with music, sport, shows and a ball.
25-26 Jul, Fête des Quartiers du Nord, celebrations including dances, games, regattas and fireworks on Flamands beach.
AUGUST
08-09 Aug - Fête du Vent, celebrations including fishing and fireworks in the village of Lorient.
15 Aug, SBJAM Music Festival
24 Aug, Feast Day of St Barthélemy, the island patron saint. Celebrations, church and official ceremonies and fireworks, Quai General de Gaulle.
25 Aug, Feast of St Louis (patron saint of Corrosol), fishing festival, fireworks.
NOVEMBER
05-08 Nov, Blues Festival
16 Nov, Pitea Day, Beach of Public, a commemoration of the twinning of Gustavia and the town of Pitea in Sweden.
23 Nov, Gustavialoppet (Swedish Marathon), 3km walk open to all and a 13km running race for men and women.
DECEMBER 31 Dec, New Year’s Eve Regatta, fun race around St Barth.
31 Dec, New Year’s Eve, live music and fireworks at Quai General de Gaulle.
St Barth Public Holidays 2009: 01 January, 10 & 13 April, 01 & 08 May, 14 July, 25 December.
Please note that the above events and dates may be subject to change/cancellation. Please check locally for confirmation of details. |
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Car Hire
Most people hire a car in St Barths to visit the beaches by day and the restaurants in the evenings. It may not be necessary for the whole of your visit if you are staying in a hotel, but you will certainly need one if you are staying in a villa. The main reason is that not that many taxis are available on the island and they are even harder to come by after dark. Because of demand you should definitely book your rental car in advance if you are visiting St Barths at Christmas and New Year or at the height of the season in February. Even in the rest of the season it is probably still advisable. All the car hire companies have a booth at the airport and they display the names of people picking up cars that day.
Unlike most Caribbean islands, European visitors to St Barths do not need to get a local licence (St Barths is in the European Community and so the regulations are the same). There is no need for American visitors to get a licence either.
The regulations for hiring a car are the same as those in France. Drivers must be at least 18 years old and hold a full driving licence. Different companies may have their own regulations.
Our chosen car hire companies in St Barths are:
Europcar
Europcar is one of the two largest car rental agencies in St Barths. It has six bases around the island, including the airport and hotels and has around 200 cars in all, mostly small jeeps but several Smart cars.
Gumbs Car Rental
A friendly, locally owned car rental company in St Barths. They have a base at the airport, but they will also deliver to your hotel, yacht or villa from their fleet of around 65 air-conditioned jeeps, open-topped jeeps, sedans and Smart cars. |
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