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Anguilla map
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Nudity
Officially nudity is against the law in Anguilla and is frowned upon to the islanders. Practically speaking only toplessness is ever practised and then only in very private villas and in very remote areas away from the public gaze. You are asked not to wander around the Valley in a bikini or bathing trunks rather to cover up. |
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Passports & Visas
All visitors to Anguilla require a valid passport along with a return airline ticket; however American visitors may travel on a driver’s licence with photo along with a birth certificate, and Canadians with a Certificate of citizenship with photo and birth certificate. As of 31 December 2006 however, all American citizens returning home from the Caribbean will need a valid passport. For further information please check with the U.S. Department of State. British citizens must hold a full 10-year passport valid for at least 6 months from entry date. American, Canadian, British and EU citizens do not require a visa for short stays. |
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Places to Go/Activities
There are not that many places to visit on the island, which apart from its beaches and sea views is frankly not that attractive. The vegetation is scrublike and there are only a few open spaces where there is a view across grassland or a pond. Add to this the fact that the housing is overwhelmingly modern, mostly built in concrete that tires quickly when not regularly painted.
The hotels around the island do have an interesting recent tradition of architecture, however. See Accommodation.
The Valley
The capital of Anguilla, the Valley is hardly a bustling place. There are around 600 inhabitants and you will only recognise it by the fact that the density of the buildings and their size is marginally greater than in other parts of the island. All in all it is only just noticeable as a town.
The official departments, utility buildings and a couple of malls are on Carter Rey Road, the road than runs in from the airport roundabout, but there is a clutch of traditional stone and clapboard houses on Coronation Avenue, which leads northwest towards Crocus Bay. The unexpected name, the Valley, only becomes apparent during heavy rains, when the town has occasionally been known to flood.
Anguilla National Trust Museum, the Valley, t 497 5297
Educational displays of Anguilla’s natural, archeological and historical assets.
Ebenezer Methodist Church
The oldest church in Anguilla built in 1830.
Heritage Collection Museum, East End t 497 4092
An excellent exhibition of everything Anguillan curated by Anguillian historian Colville Petty, from evidence of the early Amerindian settlements through plantation to colonial and more modern times, including a room devoted to the Anguillan revolution. Coins, stamps shells, household items and pictures of events.
Old Salt Factory & Pumphouse, Sandy Ground
Formerly a storage shed for salt harvested from the salt pond, now a bar.
Pyrat Rum, Anguilla Rums Ltd, Sandy Ground, t 497 5003
Free rum tasting and a tour of the plant to where Pryat Rum is blended (from imported premium Caribbean rums) and bottled. Souvenir shop. Open Mon-Sat from 9am to 5pm.
Wallblake House, The Valley
Built in 1787 it is Anguilla’s only remaining plantation house. This is a private house in which there are sometimes exhibitions of art. |
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Places of Worship
The Anguillians are a church going nation. The main religions are Anglican (40%), Methodist (33%), Seventh-Day Adventist (7%), Baptist (5%), Roman Catholic (3%).
Religious Services
Visitors are always welcome to attend the various church services and services are broadcast on Radio Anguilla; weekdays at 6.10 to 7am, and Sundays through the day with combined religious programming and sacred music.
Bethel Methodist Church, South Hill, t 497 2612
St Mary's Anglican Church, the Valley, t 497 2971
St Gerard's Catholic Church, the Valley, t 497 2405 |
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Real Estate
For so many centuries, Anguilla was among the least desirable land in the whole Caribbean, but the recent success of its tourism industry means that the island’s scrubby real estate is now more valuable than it has ever been. This is particularly true since 2002, when St Regis signed an agreement to develop the land around the new golf course. Most recently there has been a run on waterfront land, but prices have been rising all over the island.
In some ways it is a bit of a mystery that the island has not been quicker to develop. That said, regulations for purchasing land on the island are relatively strict. To buy land you must obtain an Alien Land Holding Licence, which can be a laborious procedure, and takes from three to six months. If you are building a house you are often permitted to buy only half an acre (a larger plot must be justified by a larger project, either a larger house or possibly a complex of villas). You must present plans which must be passed, and you face fines if the construction has not been completed within the stated time (usually 18 months). Anguilla is expensive in many respects and owning land is no exception. Taxes are quite steep, 17.5% on the purchase of the land and then on every transaction during the build. And also afterwards too. If you choose to rent out a property, then you will have to pay the same on any earnings. The net result is good however, perhaps because the people who do buy are prepared to go through the hoops. The future is looking good in Anguilla.
Geographically the most prestigious area to buy and develop was always the West End, which is home to many of the hotels, but houses have been built all over the island. In some cases they have sprung up in areas even before the infrastructure, in the hope that the roads and electricity will follow soon. From the West End scattered development has stretched pretty much all the way along the north shore, up to and overlooking Sandy Ground (after which there is mainly local development until the Valley), and then again around Shoal Bay and along to Island Harbour, even beyond now towards Captain’s Bay. On the southern shore villas have sprung up in both directions from Blowing Point. Most of the waterfront land is being snapped up.
And construction continues apace. In addition to the many increasingly grand and spectacular private houses being built, a number of major projects are underway, including the St Regis development around the new golf course and the Viceroy project at Barnes Bay. There is also another golf course in the offing at the moment, at the east end of the island. Another popular area of development currently is multiple villas, three or four of them in a small complex.
While Anguilla has become steadily more and more popular recently, it is only gradually catching up with the price of land in, say, Barbados and St Barts. Villas for sale are few and far between and so prices continue to rise. Prices are fairly standard across the island. An acre of undeveloped coastal land (not beachfront land, which is reserved for tourism development now) will go on the market for around US$500,000 or more, while the same parcel inland can cost around $100,000 for the least desirable plot up to $750,000. A three bedroom house in a not particularly prestigious location has been on sale for $365,000 recently and in more prestigious areas for $2,500,000. The highest price recorded so far for a private villa sale is US$8 million.
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Recommended Books
There is a number of pamphlets that tell of moments of Anguilla’s history, many of course referring to the rebellion and invasion that was variously written up as ‘the Mouse that Roared’ and ‘the Eel that Squealed’, even as Britain’s ‘Bay of Piglets’ (it took place soon after the abortive American backed invasion of Cuba by Cuban exiles at the Bay of Pigs), but the best description of the episode was written by Donald Westlake. Under an English Heaven tells the story of the Anguillians defiant stand against the Kittitians and British bureaucracy. It is an unexpectedly entertaining read and has some absolutely priceless photographs.
More recently the development of the restaurant trade has been documented in A trip to the beach (Clarkson Potter, 2000) written by Bob and Melinda Blanchard, owners of Blanchard's Restaurant (and originally of Mangos aswell). It tells the story of their connection to the island. Their sequel is At Blanchard's Table, A trip to the Beach Cookbook (Clarkson Potter, 2003). |
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Restaurants
Against all the odds Anguilla has ended up with a string of excellent restaurants (this is a barren island with a British heritage visited largely by Americans). You can eat out, and eat well, in a different place each night for ten days in Anguilla. Of course they use the best of their waterfront settings too, so many overlook the sand on one of the island’s exceptional beaches or they are on a clifftop right above the water. It is worth noting that unlike in some islands many of the hotel dining rooms in Anguilla are serious places to eat.
Chefs in Anguilla are lucky enough to have excellent sources of supply. Fresh food is imported daily from France and Florida via St Maarten next door. Unlike in other islands, the Anguillian Customs authorities just rip off a docket and collect the tax later. There is a strong basis of French food in the island as many of the chefs are from France, but of course with adaptations to the climate and the region. Interestingly the tradition of food has begun to spread. A second generation of restaurants in Anguilla has appeared now, opened by Anguillians who have trained as chefs in the big hotels, but who have adapted their skills and opened their own restaurants, often combining French techniques with local produce and ideas.
Like many other activities in Anguilla, eating out at the better restaurants is expensive, but you can find cheaper places if you would like to. The cost of an average main course (excluding steak, lobster and crayfish, which always come at a premium) are as follows. Expensive - US$25 and above, Moderate $15-25, Inexpensive - $15 and below.
Blanchard's, Meads Bay, t 497 6100, blanchards@anguillanet.com, www.blanchardsrestaurant.com, expensive
Ever busy, slick and always satisfying, Blanchard's has held top spot on Anguilla for many years. Set in a open-fronted house that looks onto a sandy garden in Meads Bay, it is run by the Blanchard's, Melinda (the chef) and Bob (front of house). Excellent New American fare, with tastes gathered from around the world. Excellent wine list. You can read about the Blanchards’ experience of setting up their restaurant on the island in their two books, one of which is At Blanchard's Table, A trip to the Beach Cookbook (Potter).
Hibernia, Island Harbour, t 497 4290, hibernia@caribcable.com, www.hiberniarestaurant.com, expensive
A delightful small French and Asian restaurant with just eleven tables set in a private house above Island Harbour in the east of the island, run by husband and wife team Raoul (the chef, from France) and Mary-Pat from Ireland. Innovative combination of French cuisine and tastes from all over Asia (where they travel for two months each summer). A personally selected wine list. Art gallery to browse before or after dinner. Quite a drive from the West End, but well worth it. Closed August – early October.
Malliouhana, Meads Bay, t 497 6111, expensive
As close to a classical French menu as you will find anywhere in Anguilla, even the Caribbean for that matter. Top notch cuisine served on a multi-level, cliff-top dining room that looks out to sea, from a long and tempting menu, divided into Les Poissons, Les Crustacées and Les Viandes. Some concessions to the climate in the sauces, but otherwise French in style and service.
Altamer, Shoal Bay West, t 498 4040, expensive
Set in a striking, saw-toothed building just above the shore in Shoal Bay, Altamer (attached to the villas of the same name) offers a top-notch French and Caribbean combination created by long-time resident French chef Maurice Leduc. White walls and wicker armchairs and a view into the kitchen as well as outside. Chef's Table for six in the kitchen itself.
Covecastles, Shoal Bay West, t 497 6801, expensive
Just seven tables in a modern, minimal setting with views of night-time St Martin, at Covecastles Resort. You are surrounded by greenery, huge white walls and an expanse of glass. French cuisine that has been touched with the tropics to create a novel menu. Reserve in advance.
Pimms, Cap Juluca, t 497 6666, expensive
French combined with Asian cuisine in a very attractive waterfront setting, tables set between slender columns on a coral outcrop at the end of the Maunday’s Bay.
Straw Hat, Frangipani Beach Resort, t 497 8300, expensive
Set just above the superb sands of Meads Bay. Youthful atmosphere and excellent cuisine that uses a mix of tastes from around the world and the Caribbean.
Rumza, Lockrum Bay, t 498 6786, expensive
An indoor and outdoor setting on a terrace right above the coast on Anguilla’s southern coast, overlooking the lights of St Martin. Caribbean and South American fusion cuisine – coconut curry chicken and guava glazed pork. Also a popular bar and club, with live music several nights a week.
Cedar Grove Café, Rendezvous Bay Hotel, 497 6549, moderate-expensive
The domain of Anguillian chef Leonard ‘Smoke’ Sharpless, who turns out a range of excellent dishes developed either from local ingredients or international fare that has been adapted to the tropics. Pretty open-air setting under the cedar trees of the name.
Mango’s, Barnes Bay, t 497 6479, moderate-expensive
Popular, lively and reliable restaurant in a breezy, beachfront setting in Barnes Bay. ‘New American’ cuisine, including Cajun and Caribbean dishes.
Trattoria Tramonte, Shoal Bay West, t 497 8819, moderate
An Italian restaurant in a simple but pleasant setting right on the beach at the western end of the island.
Flavours, South Hill, t 497 0629, moderate
One of a new generation of locally inspired restaurants. Rexie Fleming, who trained at Cap Juluca, has now set up on his own, offering his personal take on modern Caribbean food, on a covered, open-sided dining room, upstairs in a modern house overlooking Sandy Ground. All the Sirloin steaks and tenderloins you might expect, but also very nicely presented curry goat, spicy creole conch, even a pepperpot. A different culinary experience and worthwhile.
Tasty’s, South Hill, t 497 2737, moderate
Similarly, Dale Carty has opened his own restaurant not far off after many years at the Malliouhana Hotel where he rose to become a sous-chef. Conch salads, local stews and well presented fresh fish.
Jacquie’s Ripples, Sandy Ground, t 497 3380, moderate
Lively bar and restaurant on the strip in Sandy Ground (facing onto the road rather than the beach). A good mix of Caribbean and international fare, even a few British dishes, often a good crowd.
Johnno’s, Sandy Ground, t 497 2728, inexpensive-moderate
Classic beach bar setting giving onto the beach in Sandy Ground, burgers, ribs and chicken or fish and a good atmosphere.
Palm Grove, Junk’s Hole, t 497 4224, inexpensive - moderate
Very simple grilled and barbecued food, excellent crayfish. Don’t go in a hurry.
Gwen’s Reggae Grill, Upper Shoal Bay, t 497 2040, inexpensive
A cracking setting at the quieter end of Shoal Bay, easy-going grill and good local fare, with Caribbean music in the background as the name suggests.
Elodia’s, Shoal Bay, t 4977 3363, inexpensive
Set in a huge wooden shed, lively atmosphere, very good local fare.
There are a number of barbecues and grills where you will get excellent simple local fare, mostly chicken and fish with coleslaw and sometimes chips. Try Rafie’s in South Hill, B & D's Barbecue in Meads Bay and the stalls opposite the People's Market in the Valley. |
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Rum
Pyrat Rum is blended by Anguilla Rums Ltd in Sandy Ground from imported rums from other islands. There is a rum tasting room with free tastings and a tour of the plant from 9am to 5pm, Monday to Saturday. |
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Sailing
With all the sailing in nearby islands, Anguilla sees quite a few sail boats. That said, the Anguillians do not necessarily make visiting that easy. Fees are unpredictable and often extremely expensive. There is no real marina in Anguilla at the moment and because of the shape of the island there are not even that many good anchorages. Most yachts put into Sandy Ground, where there are Customs and Immigration facilities.
For the Anguillians themselves however, sailing is really the national sport and it is extremely popular. There are fiercely contested races during the regular island festivities. They hold many races at the weekends during the summer months, July and August. As you wander around the island you will see the brightly painted hulls hauled up onto the beach and supported on pegs, waiting for their next outing. In fact the sport is so popular that there is also a children’s version of it, with toy sailing yachts. These yachts can be seen decorating the walls in some of the restaurants around the island.
The Anguilla Annual Yacht Regatta is held in May and sees Anguillian yachts and yachts and sailors from the islands nearby. Among the events is a round the island race.
If you are visiting and would like to go sailing for the day, please see Day Sails and Boat Trips. |
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Scuba Diving
Anguilla is fairly typical of the Northeastern Caribbean underwater for its corals and fish and good visibility but generally it is not considered to have the best diving in the area. However, in the absence of otherwise spectacular underwater life, the Anguillians have cleverly sunk a number of wrecks in the island’s shallow offshore waters. Gradually these old ships, some of which sit upright on the sea bed, have become furred with corals and so they now make good diving. Anguilla does not have a hyperbaric chamber, so divers requiring emergency treatment are flown to the nearest chamber, which is in Saba.
Anguilla’s six main wrecks are the MV Oosterdiep, which sits upright in 75ft in Road Bay, the MV Meppel and MV Lady Vie, which are also both upright in 80ft at Sail Reef, the MV Commerce and the MV Sarah, both of which sit in 80ft and the MV Ida Marie which is shallower in 60ft. But Anguilla’s most famous wreck is actually far older than these. El Buen Consejo, which sank in 1772 has been designated an Underwater Archaeological Preserve, set aside by the Government of Anguilla for its protection and for public enjoyment.
There is diving off some of the offshore islands including, though this is often dependent on the weather. Sandy Island, Prickly Pear, Little Scrub and Anguillita. Reefs include Sail Reef, Crystal Reef and the shallow Frenchmans Reef.
For further information on diving in Anguilla, scuba courses and waterports, please refer to Shoal Bay Scuba, our recommended dive operator on the island. They are based at Shoal Bay (East), Anguilla’s liveliest beach. |
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Security
Generally Anguilla is an extremely safe island, both from the point of view of personal security and with regard to your belongings. However, you are advised to take the same sensible precautions as you would anywhere in the world, by not leaving valuable belongings visible from outside your villa, or unattended on the beach or in a car, particularly in remote areas of the island. |
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Service Charge/Tipping
All hotel and most of the mega-villa accommodation is subject to a 10% room tax and a 10% Service Charge. A few hotels include the charges but most add it to your bill, which can make quite a difference to the eventual price of your holiday (make sure you check the terms and calculate this in when pricing it up).
Tipping for good service is always appreciated and with a largely American clientele this has become the norm. In restaurants, check the bill, as a 10%-15% service charge may already have been added if not, the minimum expected is still 10%. In privately rented villas and apartments, service is generally not included so all members of staff including the ground staff should be tipped on your departure. Check with the local property manager for guidance. |
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Shopping
Anguilla does not have a lot of shopping, but it is worth knowing that the island does certain things very well. The smart hotels have their boutiques with good beach clothes and some evening wear. Outside them there are several interesting art galleries that deal in art from the island and from around the Caribbean. Otherwise there are just a few boutiques that offer any clothing or accessories. A couple of gift shops offer bone china, crystal and jewellery international name brands.
If you are looking for duty free bargains, then Anguilla is not really the place. Salvation is right there for the desperate, however, on St Maarten next door, which has duty free by the bucketload. It is a short ferry-ride away. For couture you are best to head for St Barths.
Shopping hours, for non-food stores, are generally Mon-Sat, 9am–5pm. Only a few shops open on Sunday.
ART & CRAFT
Arts and Crafts Centre
Souvenirs include shells and small models of island sloops, island-built racing boats.
Cheddie's Carving Studio, West End, t 497 6027, cheddie@anguillanet.com
A fascinating place and well worth a visit.
Bartletts Collection, Back Street, South Hill, t 497 6625, bartlett@anguillanet.com.
Devonish Art Gallery, West End, t 497 2949.
Hibernia, Island Harbour, t 497 4290, hibernia@caribcable.com, www.hiberniarestaurant.com
At the excellent restaurant, art collected on their annual travels in the summer, to Poland, Georgia and most recently (in 2005) Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Bali. Restaurant hours only. Closed August - early October.
World Art & Antiques, West End, t 497 5950, world1@yahoo.com.
CLOTHES
Irie Life, Back St, South Hill, also on the beach at Sandy Ground
Cool and colourful beach-wear and casual clothes.
FOOD SHOPPING
Gee Wees Bakery, West End
A very popular place for great bread, pastries, hot lunches and delicious local 'black cake' - a very dark, rich fruit cake.
Fat Cat Gourmet to go, the Valley, next to Lake’s supermarket
Prepared food to go , salads, curries and quiches.
Le Bon Pain, Island Harbour
Bakery and pastry shop, fresh baguettes.
If you want to buy fresh fish as it comes in, then you can go to Anguilla Fisheries in George Hill, where the catch generally arrives in the late afternoon.
SUPERMARKETS
Ashley's Supermarket, the Valley, t 497 2941, Blowing Point, t 498 2641
Open till 8 nightly, Sunday mornings till 11am.
Albert Lake, the Valley, t 497 2240
Open till 8.30, Saturday till 9pm, Closed Sunday.
Flemings, Long Bay.
Island Supermarket, Island Harbour.
Foods Ninety Five, West End, 497 6196
Open till 9 pm weeknights and Saturdays, Sundays 8am-3pm.
People’s Market, the Valley
The streetside fruit and veg market, there most days Sat am not Sunday, plus food stalls opposite. |
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Solo Travellers
Anguilla is not the easiest island to visit as a solo traveller – it is very much a couple’s domain – but if you would like to hide yourself away then there are a few smaller places where you will be looked after nicely, including Rendezvous Bay, which is extremely low key. Shoal Bay has a good level of activity and a very easy going attitude, so you will find like minded souls passing through if you stayed there, at Shoal Bay Villas or, less expensive, at Madeariman cottages. At the top end of the scale you would be well looked after at Covecastles and if you wanted an upbeat atmosphere with a very good spa then you could try Cuisinart.
The Anguilla Yoga Studio and Retreat Centre put on retreat weeks at La Sirena and Shoal Bay Villas with rates geared for solo travellers (as well as couples or groups). Take a look at www.jeanne-marie.com for further details.
Listed below are some of the best places to stay as a solo traveller: | Rendezvous Bay Hotel & Villas
Extremely low key, relatively simple, oodles of old Caribbean atmosphere and Anguillan charm. However, the hotel has been closed for refurbishment since summer 2008. | Shoal Bay Villas
A small group of self catering apartments right on Shoal Bay, Anguilla’s liveliest beach. The twelve studio, one- and two-bedroom apartments are pleasantly furnished and look either over the pool and courtyard or over the sand and fantastic blue sea of Shoal Bay itself. A low key atmosphere right at the heart of the beach. |
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Spas
There are two excellent purpose-built spas in the major hotels, at Malliouhana and at Cuisinart. Both accept outside clients by appointment. Interestingly Cerulean, one of Anguilla’s top villas has recently put in a spa for the use of its guests, making it one of very few in the whole Caribbean. There is a small number of independent therapists on island who will come to your villa or your hotel room.
Susan Ciminelli Spa, Cerulean Villa
Susan Ciminelli-trained staff are on hand at Cerluean Villa, making it one of the few villas in the whole of the Caribbean with dedicated spa staff. Treatments available include a variety of massages, customised facials and nutritional counseling. Restricted to villa guests only.
Malliouhana Hotel & Spa, Meads Bay
A dedicated building right above the beach with fantastic views. Three private suites where you can have therapeutic and speciality massages (stone therapy, reflexology and aromatherapy), in a ‘his and hers’ suite if you want, and body wraps and exfoliations and facials. There is also a gym and men’s and women’s saunas and steam room.
Venus Spa, Cuisinart
Offers a number of dry rooms, for seven varieties of massage and other body treatments including wraps and facials, and a wet room for hydrotherapy treatments. Also fitness, with yoga, pilates and personal programmes.
Taino Wellness Centre, South Hill, t 497 6066, tainowellness@hotmail.com
Owned by Jill Walker a Canadian registered massage therapist. Spa services are available, including a mobile service, and private and group classes in yoga (mix of Iyengar and Kripalu styles), body rolling and Tai Chi. |
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