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Balenbouche Estate is one of the gems of the Caribbean. It is set on an estate in the south of St Lucia, around a lovely, secluded plantation house. There are just four simple but comfortable guest cottages, including two larger self-catering cottages (which can sleep up to 5 people each), and a wonderfully hospitable welcome. Balenbouche, one of the few genuine St Lucia eco accommodations, is very affordable and is a delightful place to stay. There is plenty to explore, but with its tropical tranquility, it is also ideal for slow-time contemplation, of the beautiful surroundings and of course of the estate’s mysterious name. Balenbouche is also a good place to visit by day, to enjoy the nature and the authentic side of St Lucia.
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Style: Authentic St Lucian, family-run, working plantation with historic ruins, ancient gardens and secluded beaches. Some classic Caribbean chattel house accommodation (two cottages are former homes that were relocated from nearby towns and restored) with locally sourced wooden floors, antique furniture, natural stone showers, pitched wooden ceilings, louvered doors and windows and a porch with unique balustrades. Clean and simple with warm hospitality, perfect to explore the real St Lucia
The Beach: Balenbouche Beach is one of several secluded, grey sand beaches at Balenbouche Estate St Lucia. There are also more accessible public beaches in the Laborie area that are good for snorkelling
The Rooms: 2 self-catering cottages, 2 one-bedroom cottages (with fridges) all with en suite bathrooms and outside garden showers
Key features: Historical St Lucia guest house, offering exceptional value, also St Lucia villa rental – 2 self-catering cottages, 2 one bedroom cottages with refrigerator, excellent facilities for yoga, Reiki and other holistic activities, good walks, close to nature, working plantation. Heritage site, family home, responsible tourism
Children: Not suitable for unsupervised younger children due to machinery ruins and open water sources as well as possible allergies to insect bites
Staff: Owner Uta Lawaetz and her two daughters Verena and Anitanja are in residence almost year round. All three women are warm and friendly, very good cooks and multilingual. Maids will attend to the rooms daily with a full clean twice or three times a week |
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Your first sight of Balenbouche Estate is a vision of the old West Indies. The double pointed eaves of a pretty wooden Creole house protrude from explosive greenery – sprays of bougainvillea and golden palms. The house is classic Caribbean, over a hundred and seventy years old and furnished with antiques. Wooden shingle roof tiles, verandas with wooden balustrades, shuttered windows and French doors with frosted panes. Standing among the massive tropical trees, it has a timeless and nostalgic sense of the old plantation life.
Balenbouche is far removed from the large and lively hotels on the northern beaches around Rodney Bay. Geographically it is at the opposite end of the island, in the local, lesser developed South, but more importantly it is a world away in atmosphere too. There is a calm and stillness to the place, in the incredibly pretty gardens. Some feel a source of spirituality. And there is the hospitality, too. Balenbouche is run by two generations of the Lawaetz family, mother and two daughters, whose heritage is German, Danish, American and Cruzan (St Croix /US Virgin Islands), but who have lived here since the early 1980s.
The main house, which dates to the mid nineteenth century, is the heart of the place. There are wicker armchairs, antique armoires and traditional four poster beds. Some walls have tapestry to dado rail height and there are marble topped tables. The estate house has been decorated with a mix of period furniture and local antiques from St Lucia and Martinique, which gives a distinct sense of the traditional West Indies, with miniatures and old Caribbean scenes on the walls, even a lime rinder as decoration. Ambient music plays in the background.
The house is surrounded by a veranda, covered with a tin roof,on two sides, and it is here, in the calm of the afternoon or early in the evening that you get the strongest hint of the romance and the gracious hospitality of the old West Indies, something that is largely forgotten now around the islands.
Usually, meals are served on the veranda, but they might just as easily be served inside or in the garden, giving variety during your stay. Meals are served buffet style when there are groups, or family style (dishes all brought to the table) when there are only house guests from a small table d’hôte menu.
The accommodations consist of 4 cottages set in the garden around the main house. Two of the villas, Banyan and Almond, are modern, fifties buildings that have been restored and redecorated to make them a little more modern and welcoming. They have muslin nets over the beds and mosaics in the showers as well as some novel touches in the bathrooms (like one of the sinks which is set in a block of wood). They also encourage open-air living, with large verandas. One has double chairs swinging from the ceiling, and a low planter’s chair with extra long arms on which you can put up your legs. Each have a kitchenette, two bathrooms and two bedrooms, which are quite simple, but nicely done. They each work well as a small St Lucia private rental.
There are also two other one-bedroom cottages set in the garden. These are actually traditional wooden St Lucian ‘chattel’ houses, one of which was saved not long ago from destruction during development in Soufrière. These cottages do not have kitchens but there are small refrigerators and coffee and tea makers. All meals can be provided by the kitchen on request, and there is a restaurant within a 5 minute drive. Picnics are also available if you want to spend the day away.
The walls of the old boiling house (which dates from about 1765) show that Balenbouche has long been a plantation. Since sugar failed in the early 1900s, many other crops have been grown on the estate, including coffee, coconuts and cotton. Currently they raise cattle and grow cut flowers, as well as fruits, including mangoes, passion fruit and star fruit, which are served fresh and as juices. An organic kitchen garden supplies the household and guesthouse with much of its produce.
Balenbouche Estate sees a number of day visitors who come to enjoy the setting and people come in for dinner too, so there is sometimes a lively crowd. They sometimes hold events, weddings for instance, as well as a number of themed retreats and workshops, some volunteer and academic field groups, and holistic retreats. Special arrangements can be made for groups, and up to 14 people can sleep at the estate.
Finally, as you enjoy the tranquility of the place, pondering the tumultuous and colorful history of the plantation, your mind will turn to how on earth the name Balenbouche came about. The word is audibly French Creole. Many of the names in St Lucia are. But what could it mean? There are plenty of theories (see a history of Balenbouche Estate). |
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Beach & Swimming
Balenbouche is not on the beach, but it is less than five minutes walk to the closest cove, also called Balenbouche. Although no beach is private in St Lucia, in practice the beaches around Balenbouche are very rarely visited by anyone else as it is reached via private land. It is as secluded as it gets. The three nearby beaches (5 - 15 minutes walk) have light grey sand backed by a small cliff and trees and the swimming near the shore is safe, though one must beware of undercurrents further out. There is snorkelling in the Laborie area, about 10 minutes drive, and the best snorkeling and diving is in Soufriere, a 30 minute drive. |
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Sports & Recreation
Balenbouche Estate is the ideal setting for retreats, whether it is for yoga and holistic activities (for which there is a private building for classes as well as numerous secluded spots on the property in little coves and clearings) art inspiration, school field trips, family reunions or even volunteer projects. Between May and November it is possible for skilled professionals to stay at Balenbouche for free or at reduced rates in exchange for helping with projects and renovations around the property.
You can take a guided tour of the estate, but there are also a number of hikes around Balenbouche Estate. If you wish to explore further, the owners will happily arrange any number of St. Lucia island tours.
A massage therapist can be called in for private treatments in the rooms. |
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Dining
The food at Balenbouche is delicious and prepared in good creole style, with touches from around the world. As much local produce is used as possible, including some vegetables and fruits from the estate itself. Sample dishes include chicken curry with coconut and ginger, pork with mushrooms in cream sauce, fresh fish with creole sauce or with garlic butter and basil, and flying fish filets in a cheese sauce. There are always numerous salads and other creole side dishes including breadfruit balls or breadfruit au gratin, pumpkin puree, fried plantain and green papayas. Delicious vegetarian meals are also available.
Lunch and dinner are served to visitors by day and evening (reservations are necessary) so there is sometimes a lively crowd for dinner. |
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Weddings
Such a romantic and pretty location as Balenbouche makes a great backdrop for a St Lucia wedding. The setting is extremely romantic to begin with – the plantation house, old stone ruins, the beach - but then Balenbouche will tailor things imaginatively to your requirements and your budget (rather than churning out a standard package as other places might). They work with you, fitting it to your wishes and they will come up with suitable ideas, so you will be able to create something really special, whether it is white wedding in a traditional plantation setting, a beach wedding in St Lucia with a difference, or your own completely original ceremony against a natural arbour of tropical flowers and age-old Caribbean trees. Weddings on Balenbouche Estate are completely private as well and they can have as many as 14 of your guests to stay if you book the whole place as a St Lucia private rental. |
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Responsible Tourism
For over 45 years the Lawaetz family has been deeply committed to preserving the history, authenticity and integrity of the Estate. Agro-tourism, community involvement and educational projects are an integral part of the estate. Energy use is kept to a minimum, and the owners are seeking to further reduce energy dependence through alternatives such as solar and wind power. No chemicals or pesticides are used, and rainwater is collected in tanks. Local products are used whenever possible and guests are encouraged to use local services and products. |
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Useful Hints
Balenbouche is a delightful place, but it may be important to know that it is hardly Caribbean luxury. The accommodation is quite simple, but there are no apologies for that. It is pretty much unique in the Caribbean, a plantation guesthouse that is so well priced and it is an excellent experience. |
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Practical Facts
Annual Closure dates: 2010 to be advised
Dress Code: As you wish
Facilities: Estate Restaurant (breakfast, lunch and dinner), river trails, beach, large garden, historic buildings and artefacts, historic ‘Cotton Barn’ – a multipurpose space for yoga, workshops etc
Complimentary: Guided tour of the estate, Daily Local fruit juice, fruit from the estate (when available), local telephone calls, wireless internet, daily maid service
Other Services: Laundry service, St. Lucia island tours, car rental arrangements, massage therapy
Accommodation: 4 cottages, 2 two bedroom with kitchen, 2 one bedrooms with refrigerator only, maximum number of guests 10 – 14
Children: Welcome. Children under 12 pay half price for meals, whilst those under 6 receive free meals! A cot is available on request
Weddings: If you are looking for a St Lucia wedding package, the standard Balenbouche wedding plan includes legal fees and marriage certificate, services of two witnesses if required, welcome cocktail for two, decorated area for ceremony, flower arrangements, bridal bouquet and groom’s buttonhole. Cost from US$500
Credit Cards: Major credit cards accepted via secure online service, www.Paypal.com No account set-up required if payment request is sent from Balenbouche. |
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Rates
| | 16 Nov-15 Apr 2009-10 | 01 Jul-15 Nov 2010 | | | Daily | 7 nts | 14 nts | Daily | 7 nts | 14 nts | | Calabash Cottage Sleeps 2 persons | 120 | 755 | 1,435 | 80 | 500 | 950 | | Frangipani Cottage Sleeps 2 persons | 130 | 820 | 1,550 | 90 | 570 | 1,070 | | Almond Cottage Sleeps 4 persons | 170 | 1,070 | 2,020 | 130 | 820 | 1,550 | | Banyan Cottage Sleeps 6 persons | 180 | 1,135 | 2,140 | 140 | 880 | 1,665 | All rates are in US$, per cottage on a room only basis and are inclusive of tax. Rates are based on 2 people occupying a cottage with each additional person paying US$20 each per night. Service Charge is not included and is at your discretion. Meal plans: Breakfast US$10, Lunch US$15-20 and Dinner US$25-30 per person, per day. Note during 16 Apr-15 Nov 2010 lunch and dinner will not be offered on a regular basis due to ongoing renovations and estate work. A volunteer option is available for those who are interested in farm/estate work during this time. 25% deposit required. Minimum stay 3 nights. Long term rates available. |
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Wellness & Yoga Retreats
Balenbouche Estate will be hosting a number of Wellness and Yoga Retreats during 2009-10. The retreats will be run by Patricia Perkins who has a background in Kundalini, Bikram, Ashtanga, Vinyasa and Iyengar, and has been practicing yoga for over 15 years. The retreats will include two daily yoga classes, starting in the mornings with Surya Namaskar/Sun Salutations in preparation for deep stretches and strengthening classes and later in the evenings classes take on a more meditative and restorative approach.
During the rest of the day a number of scheduled activities may include sightseeing trips, hiking, bird watching, snorkelling, a massage and a body treatment, craft workshops, flower arranging, food and nutrition and organic farming. Evening activities are optional and may include films, readings and discussions. Activities are generally tailored to suit participants interests.
Retreat dates: 21 April-03 May 2009, 04-10 May 2009, 29 November-06 December 2009 and 03-10 January 2010. Rates are from US$1,125 per person based on double occupancy, single from US$1,395 and include return airport transfers (Hewanorra only), all meals, daily yoga classes and scheduled activities. Alcoholic beverages and discretionary service charge are not included. Please contact the estate directly for further details. |
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How To Book
If you wish to make further enquiries or a reservation, please use the WEB LINK or DIRECT EMAIL ENQUIRIES facility at the top of this page to make contact with Balenbouche Estate, or if you wish to telephone them, their telephone number will be revealed if you click on the CONTACT TELEPHONE NUMBER link. |
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Locality
Balenbouche is located very close to the southern shore of St Lucia, between the towns of Laborie and Choiseul, both very local fishing villages. It is down a long-ish drive either side of which is forest and plantation. It is remote but it is a short walk to the beach and there are hikes close by.
Choiseul has a craft centre and you will find locally made items for sale including woven work illustrating the St. Lucia cultural background. |
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Airport Meet & Greet
Balenbouche is twenty minutes drive from Hewanorra Airport in the south of the island. It is best to fly into Hewanorra if you have the choice. Balenbouche are happy to send their taxi driver to collect you, but you can take any of the drivers at the airport. The ride is US$30. |
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Getting Around
If you know you will want to explore then it is probably a good idea to have a car, at least for a couple of days. On DefinitiveCaribbean we recommend Cool Breeze Car and Jeep Rental which has its main office in Soufriere or Drive-A-Matic, which will deliver a car for you and issue your local driving licence, price US$22.
Buses pass on the main road at the end of the Balenbouche driveway and although it is reasonably reliable it is not that regular (about every 20 – 30 minutes during business hours, less often outside business hours). The buses will take you in either direction, to Vieux Fort via Laborie or via Choiseul to Soufrière. From Vieux Fort and Soufriere, you can then get a direct bus to the capital Castries. |
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Visitors
For those not staying at Balenbouche it is still fun to visit and spend the day. There is an entry fee of EC$10 (US$4) and you can take a guided tour (EC$20) of the estate, which has seen human habitation for the past 1500 years at least. There are Arawak artefacts and rock carvings. You can also get coffee and cakes or a meal, for which is a good idea to make a reservation in advance. |
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